Search results

One the first point - A very poor design by the manufacturer who obviously doesn't understand basic engineerong principles. But, as that's what you have, then that's what you must use. Rather than relying on teflon tape products to botch the fitting, I'd suggest using a setting liquid or paste...

To put it simply - Parallel threads are not designed to act as seal. There should be a flat face on the fitting to which there is a sealing ring of some sort. See https://www.adaptall.com/info-tutorials/sealing-methods.php

Was in John Lewis's today casually looking at modern flat screen TV sets. There were only 2 energy efficiency ratings quoted on all sets; F and G (Their letters, not my swearing) :oops:

I cannot help but think this really is a silly request. Yes, the question is good but why drag a none-too-light air compressor plus invertor around for the possibility that you MIGHT want to reinflate a leaky tube just because you have an electric bike. It doesn't quite gel in my mind. I...

He mentioned "rockwool insulation", which could be anything. So best option is probably what was mentioned in #5 and #8 cut manhole access

In answer to your question : In the first light hole push a fish rod through the insulation with a length of cord tied to the end and drive the rod at as shallow an angle as possible towards the location of the second light hole. At the second hole push a rod, fitted with a hook-end through the...

Classic highlighting of the problem with multi-choice rather than written questions. You study for the exam such that you endeavour to remember the 'correct' answers. But nowhere does this imply you actually understand the subject such that you are sufficiently knowledgable about the subject a...

Maybe, but it may have been "reverse-plumbed" originally.

I recall reading an article many years ago about the 'special' WW2 transmitter located near Penrith, whereby, when atmospheric conditions were right 'rectification' in the atmosphere resulted in audio being heard from the heavens. No wires or screening required :oops:

I've just gone through a similar exercise fitting a heater-T to a new towel rail. Despite internet searches I could not find a tecnically sound engineering solution. What I ended up doing was to get hold of a cheap stop valve such as shown. The valve was throw away but the taperd end complete...

Not if you used the glossy side :rolleyes:

The PSE will shrink. As JobAndKnock says, go for T&G

If your turd is long and won't bend then it cannot 'travel'. Ocassionally I've ended up dropping a bucket full of water into the pan whereby the Newtonian forces of a mass of water overcome the non-Newtonian characteristics of what's stuck :)

Ah the fun we had in days gone by doing Hi-Pot testing :rolleyes:

Based on your description, and lack of manufacturer installation instructions, shield at boiler end only. Others may disagree :unsure::unsure:

I've found the pins tend to stick in if the valve has been turned off for an extended period of time. A gentle axial pull of about 1mm with pliers tends to free them off. As Exedon states, don't pull too far as, if the pin comes out, it will be followed by water !

If SGM gave a fuller description (with diagrams) on what he's working on then we might be better placed to give a definitive answer

It is indeed a broad assumption; but if the shield is used as part of a power supply circuit then it won't act as a 'screen' to eliminate noise pick-up from adjacent cables. If anything, it'll act as an antenna to pick up noise.

Only one end. If you 'earth' both ends you induce circulating current or voltage noise which defeats the purpose of the shielding (with respect to noise) The 'earthing' should be at the end where the signals are tuned/amplified/conditioned and the connection should be to the point defined as...

The idea is that you plaster to the edge of the flange, not over it. ie the skim coat is the same thikness of the flange