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My mates council are requesting 100mm in-between and 50/60mm underneath + plasterboard there are different figures for 600 or 450 centres! Are they suggesting 100mm underneath only?

Is that damp/moisture on the slab on post #17? (top right of post) If so, I'm wondering if it's not a block & beam floor, but just sat on the earth. Really the DPM could have done with being under the slab. The surface is very bumpy and it can easily puncture the DPM. The slits in the render...

That looks more than 1mm, I don't think I'd be happy with that. If you run a spirit level over a blank tile, is the tile flat? wedges look OK at the edges, but not in the middle of the tile. Tiler should have spotted this. You could mix a small amount of grout up and see what it's like when...

Would be better to post a picture. at 0.76mm I think when the grout goes down you won't notice it... that said, depends on the tiles... must have been a fun night with your credit card :LOL: Can't see you chipping any tiles once they are grouted.

On the photo with the art on the wall, to the right there is a line in plasterwork, looks like something was filled in... was there a fireplace there that's been boarded up? I see there is no chimney stack, has this been removed? These are common places for damp spots due to not ventilating the...

So it's a floating floor? Working from top down. Chipboard Celotex DPM Lumpy screed? If correct, I'd be erring to bridged brickwork as damp perpetrator.

I've got a quartz island, that I finished the edges myself, including the rounded corners. I used a small diamond blade to make initial cuts, then used a combination of sanding disc on and angle grinder and Mirka hand sander. I then used some diamond polishing discs on my drill, starting at...

I did mine in 1:3 cement:sharp sand. I didn't use any plasticiser, but you can if you prefer a bit more workability.

Glue it back up and screw for temporary clamping, remove them before you cut, (save your blade) you can always screw back in once you've made your change. Clamp a straight edge to your door so you can slide the circular saw along it. If using a cordless, adjust the depth and cut the door in say...

I've got a Neff, was a replacement for an old Bosch. The Bosch was very reliable, but at the end wasn't worth fixing (economically). Been impressed with the Neff, very quiet and simple to operate. So far been good. It's also made in Germany. Good luck in your purchase.

Will you need drain holes if you move to double glazed units with wooden frames, not sure you will. You get condensation galore when you have single glazing, which you shouldn't get with DG. Some experts will comment, but as you've a generous frame depth, you could get a large gap between both...

Don't know, this may help. Regs for combustible items

Forgot to say, some of the dearer machines, may be double boiler, one for coffee one for milk. To the man in the street, you don't need this, single boiler version is more than adequate.

Sage Barista is a very good machine. The grinder is good, and the machine simple to operate... you are able to pull proper espressos on it with good crema, the milk wand for cappuccino/lattes etc is also good. You won't find a better machine for the money. Breville have release one that is...

The bumpy surface you posted is presumably the screed? Where is the celotex above or below the screed?, finishing in chipboard.

Are you aware if there is any insulation in the floor? I would have thought that the the DPM layer would have been under the insulation or screed (if that's the bumpy stuff in your photo). That way damp can't reach the floor covering. Is the damp next to the wall? It could be possibly the...

Like these? Wind Ties Just saying, with a wall plate installed you will need a deeper fascia board.

I have mine above the front door, inside (have a fanlight window). Nearby is a street light, so I'm running my camera on daylight mode 24/7. The footage is good. Yes, there is an app, and it was easy to install. You can have multiple users to view if you want them. Also there is a subscription...

You don't need a twist strap on each joist, maybe 2/3 spaced on the walls where the ends of the rafters/joists are. The "L" shaped straps go up the wall and the short end of the strap sits on the top of the wall plate to hold it to the top of the wall. Don't think there are "U" shaped ones...

Dry pack mortar is not dry, but not wet like brick laying mortar. You could using something like 2 to 3 parts grit sand to one part cement. Mix with water until you can just form a ball with it in your hands, fill the void ramming it in with a piece of wood and a hammer If the voids are big...