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This bit of wall will always be weak, as there isn't enough masonry above it to add any weight to it, also it's only been butted up to the house wall, and when the door flexes/slams over time it will work the brickwork loose. You could have a go removing the window and rebuilding this wall as...

You should be good to crack on. You can also use screws and wedi washers (ebay) to hold it the wall. (y)

I'd get some polycarbonate twin wall 10mm minimum thickness, and some rafter bars, you will also need some sort of flashing for where it meets the white wall. Snapa bars from Clear Amber are a good choice. As Andy mentioned the structure looks like it's not in the best condition, possibly...

How large are these 'timber boxes' going to be? if the depth is only something like 150mm then think you'll need to dig down a bit. You need a bit of weight. If it was mine I'd be wanting to make a concrete cube around 400 or 500mm square for it to sit on. Bolting through the composite is OK...

Good diagram chaps, I'm curious, why is the cavity left clear, I thought a weak mix was supposed to go in below ground level?

I used to have a 30ci glow worm boiler, and sure I had this once (long time ago!), it could be the expansion vessel is low on pressure, when you are adding more water, its coming out of the the PRV (pressure release valve). Others more qualified my offer their thoughts, post a pic of where it's...

If the wall is not damp, I'd bond PIR to the wall or use insulation screws/mushrooms to fix it tight to the wall. If you tape up the joints with aluminium ducting tape, this is then the vapour barrier. You can also fix battens to the walls and screw insulation onto this, or use battens to hold...

A house near me has thermo wood cladding, it's very slick, very stable and has not been painted/protected since installation 5 years ago. Can't imagine it's cheap though.

Decking? doesn't that go on the ground... Do you mean cladding? Why not just take a photo? If you need to get it flat, use tile adhesive to bond cement board first then tile.

Just a guess... without seeing it, why can't you just use external tile adhesive? Are the gravel boards textured?

Upgrade to 16mm twinwall with screw on rafter bars. Forgot the glass. Clear Amber

Thanks for the update, you want to be happy with it, looks bloody good. Nice to see something 'made' rather than just banging down some Indian Stone! Suits your house.

Haven't tried it, but apparently sweet potatoes are toxic the rats... even though they will gnaw away at them if they are available to them.

Could try Bison Frames, near Barnsley. They didn't do run through horns, but they may well now do them. For any mitres, they can offer graff welding, makes the joints super neat.

Are the other rooms also ventilated? I added more vents in my house, and made sure the breeze can blow in from any side of the house and exit from any side too. Fly in the ointment is when there is a concrete floor as you won't be able to continue the ventilation through it.

You can use 'duckduckgo' browser, this will suppress all the annoying ads and cookie GDPR stuff. (y)

Wow, that's some garage.:LOL: Have you anymore phots? is it damp inside? There's lots of threads on here about ventilation needed for flat roofs. (cold roof). See you might be looking at cladding when finished? For the roof, you could look at removing the felt, and externally insulating...

The leadwork is for under the window (you have some lead already). This is very much DIY able as job. I have done a few roofs now (including velux), due to getting sky high quotes for what were relatively simple jobs. Between this forum and YT, there is plenty of advice/tution to be had. Good...

My brother used something he bought from Amazon to tank the wall, was fine for the a week or two, but was short lived. I'd be trying to stop the water from the outside first.

What about cladding the wall, once you've put a batten on and boards, this will protrude another 50mm from the wall and may stop the fillet getting soaked.