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Not that it's science... but according to iPhone weather app, the humidity is 86% today anyway. I've seen quite a few times, that there can be air leaking from downlight cut-outs into the loft, and I have seen bathroom extractor piping not sealed properly and these can aid moisture in the loft...

Any chance you can take some wider photos showing more of the outside etc, be good to see the whole structure. Can you take photos looking down onto roof? It looks like a flat roof with slope and presume it's shedding it's water as you have no gutter, this will be adding to the damp wall. Is...

Elbow grease is best. If you double dig I've found they are easier to keep in a good state. Rotavators, only ever seem to churn up weed for me and make more, that said depends on what your weeds are. I've got couch grass and if you chop up the root, you get just get two new ones to contend...

I'd knock the render off, below the dashing, try to find the DPC and have no render below this. Then either lower ground level or dig/cut a trench spade deep 150mm wide along wall, fill with larger pebbles when you can, so air con circulate. You might want to pull a floorboard up as you may...

I'd hack some off the render, you don't want it to ground level, You need at least two courses of brickwork from bottom of render to ground. I would be tempted to take it to the DPC. Quite a straight forward process. To do it neatly you'll need an angle grinder and diamond segmented blade.

Sounds too loud for expansion... but don't suppose there are any hot taps on/heating operating when you get the sounds?

I thought it was going to be worse ;) Is there a damp course in the walls? usually two bricks (ish) up from ground level? Where you think you have rising damp on the photos, what's on the other side of the wall... Is the ground level high? leaking/overflowing gutter etc? Take a couple of pics...

A friend's family member recently had a new flat roof on their extension... it was a cold roof, but they didn't even have a wall plate, joists were just resting on inner skin brickwork, had some noggins here an there. 120mm joists seem a bit small for a 3m span would think you might want to...

Looks good, try not to use wire wool on Oak, if there is any damp air around you'll get black spots appear.

How large an area do you need to cover? Puraflex 40 seems to stick anything to anything. But it's in sealant tube, so will be expensive and possibly not very practical. What about carpet double sided tape?

Your lucky, I ordered something from and Ebay seller and selected the nearest collection point, the local shop. After a week it's still not been delivered, turns out the local shop doesn't accept Evri parcels after all, so the driver took the parcel back. Now it seems to be MIA!

It's advisable not to have external render down to ground level, it should stop short, say 150mm (min) as it's possible to 'bridge' the DPC (Damp Proof Course) and can introduce damp. I see there is an air vent on the chimney stack in the room, but there is no chimney on the roof, presume this...

Yes, sounds wrong doesn't it. What is the floor? is this solid concrete & screed or an overlay on suspended floor? You might want to post some photos of the system, might get some more ideas.

I've stopped programming my UFH (kitchen) and just leave it set to 18ºc, it comes on, as and when the thermo tells it too. I find it's more comfortable in temperature this way. The bills are not big either. I used the aquarium sensors as previously mentioned, you can get them cheap off eBay...

What's the central heating water temperature? Presume there is a blending valve on your UFH, perhaps you could turn this a 'notch' hotter.

You could screw roof battens at 90° to joists, these are around 25x50mm. If the insulation is cut tight, the battens would be a bit reassurance, but probably not necessary. I put a building paper on top of the joists/insulation stapled onto joists, then wood floorboards. What flooring are you...

You might be able to utilise STS boards or something like that. I have used these on a floor with LVT on top. They are around 10mm thick.

If your panels are corrugated PVC then you can also use a fine toothed jigsaw blade (metal cutting). Just let it cut in it's own time, don't rush it. I used two different panels from the same manufacturer strangely one of the panels was prone to chipping more than the other.

Doubt you'll get an thermal properties with polycarb or multi-wall panels, especially if the structure is open on the side. Last year in the UK we did hit 40°c (a rarity I know) and my canopy (16mm twin-wall) faired well, it does cut down the sun's intensity, but it was still hot. My centres...

I'm running my flow temp around 42°c. The radiators as only just warm, but I'm keeping it just ticking over. Have a mix of UFH and radiators. I take it you are not living in the house, if you are only 10-15°c?