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Buy a second hand corded circular, something like an Evolution. Use it then flog it. That said you might be better with a track saw, you clamp the aluminium guides to the door, then whiz the saw down the guides.

Yes, although there are probably a few variants if you search long enough. Once you have the tiles, lay it out dry, at 15mm joints you might still need to trim the small ones, depends on how picky you are ;) and how well cut the other sizes are. I find Marshall's to be better tiles, more...

I used fiddies hard wax oil of oak flooring, it's a good finish, and goes a long way... as with hard wax oils they do 'yellow' slightly over the years.

Think the common pattern for packs of those sizes is called 'opus'. Whenever I've paved with this pattern, I find unless you have the joint lines quite large (which I don't like), you will need to chop the small tiles down slightly to keep things consistent spaced. I tend to whip round with...

With regard to primed pipework... I thought it was to do with expansion & leak detection. I'm sure there are loads of floors laid like yours where the pipework hasn't been plumbed in. As for leaks, you will only find out when it's pressurised. If they were careful when they laid the screed...

I used Primer G from Mapei for my liquid screed floor, I used ditra mat too, all has been well, been down a few years now.

Even though it's not connected to the boiler, has the pipework been brought up to pressure? I think normal practise is to bring it up to pressure and screed whilst pressurised (mine was).

Sorry, think I might have used Kerapoxy, had to look up the tub... not the kerakoll.

Mine's slightly gritty, not like silicon. It was also a pig to clean off. Don't think I'll be using it again.

Are there any drainage slots, anywhere in the bottom of the door fame? If so are they blocked?

No, the flow temperature is for the rads/heating, what is yours currently set at? I run mine low, around 50°C

Until you find out the issue, can't you turn the heating water flow temperature down, so it's not that hot?

Strip of PIR foam first, then plasterboard or window ledge. Are there two windows, as there is a gap on the first pic, but not the second one?

Whia bits/blades are very long lasting. Dewalt, erbauer etc haven't lasted long for me. Just snapped a wera, but I'm willing to accept it was user error o_O

Probably wise to leave a gap. Rather than lawn edging, what about driveway grids? you fill them with gravel. You might want to use a weed membrane too.

As a rule of thumb, for espresso, I try to extract twice the weight of grinds to water, so 14g coffee to 28g of water in an extraction time of around 25-30 seconds. If it's sour when you taste it, tighten the grind up, bitter, loosen the grind. On barista express machines, you can override the...

OP, would also add, some skip outfits offer cheaper skips for soil and rubble only. Last one I had was around £110 for a builders skip.

Cheaper to buy a breaker from FB Marketplace, might get one for £50, then you can sell once you've done with it. Mine has been used to pull numerous floors and slabs up. I used an angle grinder to make a cut around 150mm from the wall, and removed the slab that was around 100-125m deep, then...

Has the system been working properly or is it new to you? Presuming you do have 2 x zone valves on your system? This allows separate control of floor and rest of the house. They look something like this: Zone Valves

Could it be heat loss of the room? If the floor probes are not allowing anything past 27°c, perhaps now that there is insulation missing the room can't maintain your target temperature. Do you have a room thermostat? wondering if you could could disable the floor probes for a day or two. I...