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A bit of bread is what the old guys used to use

the prv is the first thing to check before suspecting anything else To check if it is going out condense pressure upto 2 turn the two valves off under the boiler leave for a day if possible if pressure drops you know its on the boiler and likely to be the heat exchanger leaking into condense...

does the pressure on gauge rise when boiler is on and do you mean it drips out the little copper pipe that pokes through the wall

What other problems other than The flexible pipe to expansion vessel, on these has a small bore and a tight bend and dont need a lot of muck to block up .

next time you are there disconnect the live red wire in the stat safely so no one can touch it ..... If the boiler still stays on then its an internal fault on the boiler

with clock off and stat turned down can you put a pic up of front of boiler and what its doing. And as per country fan do you just have one stat as in you dont have separate controls upstairs and down stairs or underfloor heating ?

i missed the pic of the combi

it will be a faulty motorised valve then , not the stat

does the heating go off when the clock/programmer is set to off

did you look at the level before draining ? 5 minutes would drop the tank by more than a third

do it for more than a few seconds but a minute /90 seconds should do it

drain some water off and see if you can hear the header tank filling up if you cant you have a blocked cold feed

if it goes to a shared drain then it could very well be covered for free from your water supplier the rules changed a number of years ago Worth giving them a call

leave big screw off pump and turn everything on check if the internal screw is spinning freely its very rare the impellor actually comes off. pump making an noise / boiler only staying on for 30 seconds no water out of highest point Do you have a header tank in the loft supplying the boiler ...

It will be on the flow pipe from the boiler

hacksaw blade into the hole and do a few cuts taking care not to damage thread in the rad and it will come out using hamer and a flat blade

No need to put a safety valve back in a black iron plug will do .

Change it.

its an old fashioned safety valve from the 60/70`s under all that crude are relief holes it can be taken out and plugged off as they are not required anymore . we used to just cover stuff up and just snatch them . Although the tee is 22mm (or 3/4) the valves came in either 1/2 inch or 3/4 ...

yep does it look like it has an allen key socket inside it if not do what densso says