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The Rothys are good. Likewise pretty much anything from Knipex, Nerrad and Bahco.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-wc07-universal-compression-waste-straight-coupler-white-32mm-x-32mm/15490 or elbow

Is the correct answer!

In a word, no. You need a press gun with the right jaws for the fittings. The fittings are specific to the pipe. You might ask Roth who stocks their "Laserrohr" local to you, and then ask that stockist who buys that piping system. That person will have the right gear! Most plumbers won't...

AFAIK what you're trying to do can only be done with Vaillant's own proprietary controls. Happy to be corrected if anyone has achieved this using third party kit.

Gimp

As correctly stated above : Black tank is F&E for the water that circulates through the rads, boiler etc. The water that comes out of the hot taps is stored (cold) in in the top part of the fortic, above the annular indentation 2/3 of the way up. OP - what's that top bit of the fortic look...

They last a lifetime!

One of these may help: https://www.screwfix.com/p/adjustable-basin-wrench-13mm-40mm/868xr FWIW installer will have fixed tap to sink before fixing sink to worktop.

Are you missing one of these? https://mcdonaldwaterstorage.com/product/alloy-combination-tank-lids/

Some info, may be relevant to your specific boiler and setup. https://viessmanndirect.co.uk/files//f814ea2a-5b56-4feb-9166-a43e00f71548/WB1B%20Compact%20Outdoor%20Sensor%20Instructions.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOoq4eudAQtJ9P-ie5EtZlJjGAXusjBXmU7iV9P7BzRsPSsfwX-N3 You may need to download software to...

Linking a pipestat in series with a frost stat , both located in the unheated garage is the usual way to achieve frost protection with minimal nuisance triggering. Obviously decent pipe insulation required as well in the unheated space.

Is it a "whole house" pump or is it currently serving one existing shower only?

TBH, it's f**ked. Bite the bullet and replace.

You'll need two decent sized wrenches; one for the union nut and one for the valve body. You don't want to put any strain on the pipework going up into the valve.

No. Joining the wires has the same effect as setting the programmer to "on", i.e. sending the switching voltage to the thermostat.

Get it checked by a gas safe engineer with the relevant gas fire qualification. At a minimum I would expect him to remove the fire, inspect/clean out the catchment space, carry out a flue test and advise you accordingly. The issue with soot washing down suggests to me that degraded flaunching...

Screw - it might need removing one day.

Inlet filters would be my first check.