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It looks as though the wall is different maybe a door converted to a window? Probably cracked soon after construction due to inadequte tieing in. I don't think there's much to worry about

It's a very curious movement to say the least. It looks as though the top part of the pier has moved outwards. The wall itself looks straight and it doesn't appear to be a foundation issue. Is ther any sign of damage inside? Evidence of damp? Most surveyors unfortunately, though understandably...

If rising damp doesn't exist then why do we bother with DPCs & DPMs? It does but is typically limited to a max of 1200 or so. Damp higher up the wall is going to be something else. A failed or more likely bridged DPM is the cause. It is a case of sensible investigation. Don't sack your...

No you don't need planning but strictly you would need building regs. Most wouldn't bother though If the top of the hole is in the right place then whatever support is in place will be unaffected, but a kitchen hatch is likely to be lower. I'm reading your post as a masonry wall with a...

I think you're wrong in this instance Mr Rusty: this situation is one of taking a compliant house and deliberately rendering it noncompliant by virtue of the works done. I'm sure lawyers will be rubbing their hands together if it should happen.

That's a job to be proud of.

Probably too late to make a scrap of difference now but hosing it down won't hurt. People make concrete too wet because it is easier to level out, but it's detrimental to the final strength. There will be a tendancy for the coarse agregate to settle and the excess water to rise ("bleeding")...

Concrete probably laid too wet and almost cdertainly not cured would be my guess. How old is it?

I'm afraid I'm having difficulty in believing that any designer wants that detail. BC will very soon tell you what is NOT acceptable. I think the l;east worst option now would be to extend the outer leaf to the left as drawn and use a Firfix to link it to the existing, but get BC agreement to...

Three stories are much more regulated than 1 or 2. Having to mess about with fire doors catches a lot of folk out when they have a loft conversion. You need to have a conversation with Building Control. A sprinkler system is a possible option. I suspect you'd need fire glass in those doors...

Too late for you, but I like staggered joints with bigger tiles in smaller spaces as I 5think it takes the eye away from the small cuts which you sometimes wind up with. Try them out dry before you commit and most important of all be sure that SWMBO approves!!

A bit like the surgeon asking you to sew yourself up!! Tell the lazy git to do his job: he'll probably have to put a few grey cells in gear which I suspect is why he'd rather not do it. You need to show existing pipes and chambers clearly as well as your suggested new work. Your detail in...

That's a weird detail TBH. Have you had your drawings approved before you started? If you are at this stage is your builder guilty of a setting out cockup?

If, and it's a really big if. you can find a piece of steel tube of the right od then of course you can make it taller, and if the tube is heavier gauge tyan the original that will also make it stronger.

Try Hotdoors Bishops Stortford area: they do a huge range including custom sizes

You haven't insulated the floor? You're not going to get anywhere near regs values so a waste of time trying.

I have the Evolution 255. My old saw (aged Wickes own brand) died mid job so needed a quick replacement. B+Q had one on the shelf (and found out later cheaper than mail order) so after being very pleased with their circular saw I went for it. Night and day on the old one: light weight and...

I see no reasen why you shouldn't just install full length joists. Leave the existing in place if the ceiling is intact. You can probably drop a size given the span.

All things are possible if you have deep enough pockets. You may need a steel frame: best get an SE out for a preliminar chat.

I'm wondering if the opening was widened at some point and a new lintel added but not well so we now see a bit of movement in the bric.k. Put a staight edge or stringline under the lintel to see if there's any deflection there.