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Would this be by design or a fault in how it’s wired into the fan?

Can I get some advice with this please. It’s connected to an inline fan (no timer) in the attic and I’d rather rewire it here, than climb into the loft. Let me explain the situation. I have this fan switch outside the bath. Here is the wiring: The cables at the top are coming from the...

40mm 18gauge nails.

Yes, was thinking the same... The weight of the rigid 150mm duct has caused it to snap. I need to find a way to lift that up and rest it on something, as that will close the gap. I can then run some duct tape over it.

Called them this morning. They don't carry spare parts! I am looking at a repair job on this and would welcome any suggestions that you may have please. Thanks again.

Any ideas how I can repair or replace this strap on a 150mm extractor please? It’s no longer under warranty.

I've never skimmed. Plasterboard and easifill is the closest I have got. Should I block up and then plasterboard perhaps?

Had another thought - could I stick one of those bricks at the bottom and then mount the bottom edge of the plasterboard to that and the top corners already have some exposed bricks. Perhaps I can get a tube of Stixall to fix the brick and then the plasterboard to the bricks too? I can then...

Could I stick plasterboard directly on to some of the exposed brick at the too right and left corner and then glue some battens at the bottom to screw in to?

I'm looking for a simple fix to this please. It's a hole left by some plumbing alterations in one of the cupboards. It's quite a tight space. I have some plasterboard and am used to using the tape and easifill to smooth things out. Struggling to see how I can get a flush finish on this. I would...

I’ve got a couple of brad nails in my skirting that bent or don’t go in fully. I’ve tried the centre punch approach but they are too fine to get anything positioned over them. It keeps slipping. I also tried pulling them out with a pair of pliers and there isn’t enough to grip on to. How do you...

Is 2 part necessary in this situation? I find it difficult to mould and flatten out. Regular wood filler is easier to work with. Something like a toupret wood filler. Let me know your thoughts please.

I used standard Dulux Matt emulsion. Presumably, I need to scrape everything off and start again, using the sealer as you have suggested? If yes, when I scrape it off, can I start again straight away or do I need to wait for surface to dry or PVA before I start?

I did cut out the loose bits of paint with a grinder as I wanted the new plasterboard sheet to be larger than the hole. How do I seal the surface? Also, could this have been caused by me painting it before the easifill was fully dry? I may have inadvertently done that.

Thanks for the responses. I’ve taken it to a car mechanic and hoping he can weld it for me.

I’ve used easifill for similar purposes in the past but it’s gone spectacularly wrong on this occasion. I was covering a gap where the old back boiler was and did the following: I then taped the joins and gave it a couple of coats of easifill to blend and smooth out. It was looking good...

I’ve now sourced a 1100mm spindle. My plan is to put it flat across the top and then draw a line to capture the angle for the bottom cut. Let me know if I’m missing anything here. Should I then use my nailer or screws at an angle?

This is a base and stand for a Xmas tree. You can see where it has broken. Any suggestions on how I can fix this please. The tree is quite heavy and hence the need for a strong join. I’ve tried superglue and it didn’t hold. Thanks in advance.

The spindle is 97cm at its highest point

Is the filler acting as glue in this situation?