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Yep I'd go with that sound like you have a stub stack with a faulty air admittance valve on the top.

Tap needs re-seating and re-washering.Not sure about pumping do you mean air is in the tap?

Slight mark-up included....some of us have a living to make :wink:

Replace the whole siphon yourself for a fiver

The other possibility is whoever fitted the rad tapped it into the primary return

You can buy a new synchron motor for the valve about £20

I would say you have a mix of two problems.The main one being I would say your 3 port motorized valve has gone (the bit with the man/auto slider on).make sure the people who did work on your rads put it back into the auto position.I would guess that the problem with rads heating up when turned...

you can buy a freeze spray which will give you about 20mins but it's extra expense surely quicker and easier just to drain down?

most likely that your ballcock has had in in the f&e tank in the loft and it's virtually empty so drawing air in.

Need a few details on the type of system to get an idea,boiler type,hot water cylinder type (Direct,indirect or something else),pumped?,motorised valve?,any work done that may have caused the problem.That type of thing.That said though it sounds like a faulty thermostat just not sure which one...

yep turn the heating on so that you know when the hot water is being drawn into the rad.If all is good after this it was an airlock problem if not go back to balancing

It's either got to be a balancing issue or you need to encourage some hot water into the rad by opening either a draincock or bleed valve on that rad until the hot water in the pipe comes through into the rad.Try turning all the other rads off and then fire up the boiler and see if that rad...

That's about the mark. Fairly simple job for a plumber, its the draining and refilling that's a pain.You may need a bit of soldering to make it fit and it's always hit and miss as to weather the old immersion will come out, best to spend £15 on a new immersion and thermostat.

not sure...personally if I had a immersion in the top of the tank I would shut the cold feed drain the ch take it out and then see if the level of water in the tank dropped.Otherwise I'd shut the mains water to the cylinder drain the ch til the flow stopped then turn the feed back on...any more...

tie off the f&e ballcock and don't turn anything on.If water comes into the f&e tank through the overflow it can't be coming from anywhere else

The washing machine should pump out the waste water followed by a flush of clean water to prevent any smells so my money would still be on the waste pipe not dropping enough.Is it some sort of new installation or have you moved / changed something that has triggered the problem?

Try cleaning yor overflow out aswell.If you've got your waste pipe running downhill all the way bad smells can't get back up as the trap holds an amount of clean water effectively blocking the waste for any smell to come up.If the waste pipe runs upwards at all the trap could just as easily hold...

A split in the coil would normally show itself as discoloured water in your hot bathroom taps.It couls also leak chemically treated central heating water into those same taps.(also not good!)

An unvented system will basically mean you can get rid of your main storage tank.You'll still need a feed and expansion for your heating though.The unvented system will just mean less pipework and better water pressure at the draw off points.It does need an installer qualified in unvented sealed...

You mean a valve at the top and at the bottom or both pipes going to the same valve?.Also how big is the pipe 6,8,10,12 or 15mm.I'm just trying to determine the system you've got.So you closed both valves to remove the rad then the flow was ok when you tried it so the only thing you changed was...