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I would replace all of that

I wouldn't get the whole re pointed straight away. You've said the pointing isn't that bad, and it could be a complete waste of money getting it re pointed at this stage. If you've got similar cracking to the roof mortar above, get that sorted first and go from there

Well to me it looks like the end panels have been scribed in to the wall too far, meaning they sit further in than the doors. Then the pelmet has been put on flush with the end panels (as they should be) which means it's all set back too far in relation to the door fronts

Have the wall cabinets got separate side panels? It also looks like the panels have been scribed too far back so they don't sit flush with the doors

Doesn't look like 15mm pipe work to me

No more nails! No more needs to be said

I've had a DeWalt brushed 3 speed combi drill for 4 years of heavy use that does exactly the same noise as you describe when releasing the trigger when under no load. Never caused me any problems

Re will you see the join - if that rendered patch has been set at the correct level, any decent plasterer will be able to feather that in to the old skim and when painted you should not be able to see any join

50mm is a fair size for an expansion gap for engineered flooring! Should only be approx 10mm. Whenever I fit beading (which I hate!) I usually put a bead of adhesive on the back of it, which is the side to go back to the skirting, then a couple of panel pins through the beading and into the...

Just out of interest, in what scenario are we talking about granite being rendered here? It's likely that it may have had an sbr cement slurry bond bridge bridge applied, in which it would be very hard to remove as you probably know! What you're currently using to remove it is probably the only...