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The red & yellow handled ones are defo my favourite. My old man(shipwright/ ships carpenter by trade) has got a few of these, that he has had for donkeys years, and that have seen more than there fair share of action, and they are still going strong :!:

How decent :?: :?: Personaly I would go for Festool, I've used them in the past and they are spot on :!: :!: But make sure you are sitting down, when you look at the price :shock:

Where's the goldfish? :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

It did tickle me I must admit, the time scale sounds like some of my projects :lol: :lol: :lol:

BAS I'm not trying to be funny, but has it really taken you three years to wire up a genny?? http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=115488

Yup, and there was me calling my computer/abacus all kinds of rude words :roll:

Round dry liner boxes you say..... Mmmmm, i've got a couple of the mk's to fit later in the week, think i will have to give that idea a go!

Only one RCD would trip, on which ever circuit was at fault, as there are two separate circuits, just in the same enclosure, unless the fault was say from the live on one, to the neutral on the other, but I can't quite see that being very likely

I take it you haven't seen the Crabtree ones then :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

I discovered that the little blighters go bonkers for plain flower :!: I would be inclined to make a plug out of 1/2" plywood(or similar) and secure it in place with a bead of sealer.

Well it was a while ago, when i was told about the key operated valve setup, they have probably changed the reg's since then :roll:

They are allowed to be permanently connected, providing the filling valve has a removable key to opperate it.

Because any difference in potential, say on the mains water pipe, would have to flow through the pipe work to the point of bonding, so the pipe work would be at a different potential to the MET, completely defeating the idea of bonding.

Well re-threading would be best, but a M3.5 m/c screw into a 4BA threaded fitting will go, with a little bit of brute force and ignorance, considering 4BA has a major diameter of 3.5992 mm but has a slightly different pitch(0.0604mm differance to be precise)

Would CT = cathode tube :?: :?: :?: Am i getting this right you want to drop 230 down to 12 with a resistor? well mmm well mmm well, yes it'll work ish but why :?: Getting a trany for buttons would surely be better

On a mk5 fiesta i wouldn't worry too much about letting a bit of air in the system, 99.99% of the time it will clear itself, just check your coolant level after it's been run for 10 mins or so(and obviously before starting it). Rusty looking coolant is a good sign it's not got enough anti...

Your brake light will just be coincidental, If you are trying to lock the drivers door with the key and the central locking is bouncing(ie locking and instantly unlocking) it will be a fault in the N/S/F door mech. try locking the N/S/F door with the key if you can(some don't have a lock barrel...

They are :!: I bought a Marshalltown one and it's spot on, expensive but I think it was worth every penny :D :D :D

Followed by an extended holiday in Guantanamo Bay, I belive they are rather keen on there water features there :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Waza that is good advice! a bit harsh maybe from your point of view, but very much to the point, these guys are only trying to protect your bottom! changing a CU is in no way a diy job, and a little bit of knowledge and having a go could prove fatal, literally :!: :!: