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make sure the thermostat phial is pushed in all the way, follow the little copper wire from the thermostat dial and it should go into a little pocket on the heat exchanger secured with a split pin.

decent job is that! lick of paint on the pipes to match the wall and it's job done!

turn the valves sideways, so the bottom of the valve is on the radiator, that way you can rotate it so you can just get a 90 elbow from pipe to valve some people prefer to fit valves this way anyway. like this,

you can undo the bolts on the ridge terminal and it should just come away, a bit of persuasion with a hammer might be needed to break the rest of the flue up ducting can be a pain to get out as it's usually screwed / riveted / tapped together and may need cutting but still shouldn't be a...

when you slide the heating control over the hot water will go over with it, when you put the hot water on on its own then you will be able to move that slider without the heating one moving. you have gravity hot water, this means that whenever you put you heating on your hot water will be on...

sounds like you could have gravity fed hot water, state of the art for 1970 but not terribly efficient, can you turn on your heating on its own, or does the hot water come on with it? need some pictures please

depending on what boiler you're fitting you can maybe use a 90 or 45 bend off the flue turret, that will kick the flue out a bit and might get you the clearance

i've fitted and maintained hundreds, i like them

it'll have a trap in it, some Worcesters have bigger traps now, what model is it? it wont constantly drip whatever the model, however if the condensate pipe isn't fitted properly (with a constant downhill angle) then the water wont run out all at once, some might collect after the initial flow...

if you can be sure you have no water in the pipework and fitting, you can re-solder it, just give the outside of the joint a good helping of flux and solder as per usual. if there is any water in the pipe / fitting it wont get hot enough and the solder wont melt / run maybe just cut it out and...

No it wont. As long as the orientation of the body is correct it will vent as good as it can (which is not very good) the pump head has no relavance to the ability to remove air. i have had terrible trouble getting the air out of these pumps, flow switches, and overheat stats on boilers, ive...

what pump is it? if its the new(ish) Alpha 2 pump make sure the wire is hanging down and you can read the display without tilting your head 90 degrees, a lot of people fit them on the horizontal but don't move the head, this will cause air to be trapped and the boiler to overheat

try tapping the TRV with a hammer (or something) it could be that the pin is free but the valve is still stuck on the seating,

the condensate must be installed down stream of the trap, it has nothing to do with fumes being created from contact with cleaning products, its mainly because there is no chance of any products of combustion coming back through the plug hole as the condensate pipe is connected to the flue...

i think thats what has happened, you can see a patch just below the mixer, perhaps where the old shower was, is there a new(ish) combi installed? maybe they converted to mains pressure and it broke the existing shower that was concealed

if your boiler is less than 5 years old, (which it might be) you can get the worcester wave, but it isn't wireless, you have to run a 2 core cable from the contrtoller that plugs into the boiler, other options are Nest and Hive, your existing timer can be disconnected, but if you take it out...

so you'll need to find away of getting it into the radiator, can you remove the air release point and pour it in there, or does it have the air point welded as part of the radiator (round top)?

what type of boiler do you have? if its a combi then you'll have to get it into the radiator somehow, if there's a small tank in the loft then just pour it in there before you fill the rad back up

you can turn off the valves, drain just the radiator and the remove it, how many radiators are you taking off? if it's just one or two small ones there should still be enough inhibitor left in the system, or if you think it needs more just add some when you fill it back up

if the radiator is getting hot, and it's still not hot enough in the room, that would suggest you need a bigger radiator 8mm microbore is what you seem to have, and it should be capable of heating a bigger rad, however it will take longer to heat up as there's more water in it. an additinal rad...