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what was that? your 19th quote so far?

if you don't like their quote go elsewhere, but don't slate them off for wanting to keep their engineers safe

take a picture of your flue terminal position, i think we'd be interested to see it

just a thought, but why don't you ask the sales guy for this info?

i use a McAlpine one and never had any trouble with them. here's a link: https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-mechanical-pipe-boss-connector-black-40mm/55722 you'll need a new or very sharp 57mm holesaw and use it on low speed in the drill, it'll go through like a hot knife through butter...

ummm, just for the record i meant that although the flue isn't falling back to the boiler (judging by the brickwork to point it out obviously to the OP) it also might not be cut straight, de-burred, or pushed in enough. But to see that the flue would have to be dismantled by a gas safe engineer.

looks like there's not much of a fall on that to me (if you look at the course of bricks). you wont be able to tell its fitted correctly without taking it apart, but you can't do that, so you'll have to call a Gas Safe dude in.

'space saver' - the most ironic boiler name ever.

they'll be after you!!!!!!!!

where i am, quite often it's just a double patress box with a gazillion connector blocks inside. with 10 neutrals in one! also we don't fook as much as you by the looks ;)

yep, just go ahead and change them like for like and be happy you don't have other zone valves where you can't remove the heads. because you'd then be having to drain the system. get yourself two of these and make it even easier.

nope! your work on the heating has nothing to do with the water coming out the tap, as above, make sure the stopcock you closed is now fully open

it could well be an open vented system, i bet those two pipes going up into the loft are the open vent and cold feed. but by the looks of the set up in your picture if your heating is working and has no air in it then so should your hot water, unless the 2 port is gubbed of course. you say...

with my luck, the second i touched that valve to turn it on it would've pished out.

OP, the questions you're asking are an indication that you have no clue as to what you're doing, considering you could be on the wrong end of 240v it's probably best you get someone in. it's a straight forward job for an experienced engineer, and shouldn't cost you much, even less because you've...

there's instructions that come with the pump, i think they're in pictures to make it even easier. If you're struggling to understand them then you really need to get someone in it really is as easy as wiring a plug, if not easier

is there nothing the other side of the wall outside? perhaps even some evidence of a pipe thats been removed? radiator pipes usually travel in pairs, so do hot an colds. a pipe on its own is usually gas or a drain off. can you lift the floor upstairs and have a look and see if its there?

you need to disconnect the old hard wired one, and the two switch wires should be replaced with the new two switch wires on the wireless stat

unless you have a by-pass at least one radiator should have a normal valve (not TRV). TRV's are automatic and shut down the water flow according to the air temperature, they could theoretically all shut down at once giving the pump nowhere to pump the water which isn't a good thing. so with this...

i fitted one that sounds similar to this for my neighbour recently, they got it from Screwfix and the instructions were very vague, it took a while to heat up but it did in the end