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i would just take that non return valve out and replace it with a straight coupler (if you have enough play on the pipe to make up the gap) or 2 couplers and a bit of pipe in between

definitely looks like a non return valve to me, if so it should have an arrow on the side of it much like a stopcock does, although it might be hard to make out with it being painted

get a long inlet hose and use this: and change your trap to this: you might need a longer waste hose. if you're not confident on moving the socket, you should really get a pro in

if you have solid floors, are the pipes buried in the concrete or do you have a drop fed system where the radiators are fed from pipes coming from above, if they are buried in the floor a leak would've shown up buy now in the form of loose concrete and warped flooring. it could also be that the...

i don't see why not, but you'll have to do some other alterations to your existing plumbing and heating system. if you want a decent shower, it might be easier (and cheaper) to get a booster pump

you can get them off easily, just cut the pipe above it and pull it up and off, (it only goes one way) then re-assemble the fitting and use it again

+1 for old Hep2o, seen plenty of it to know, and some of it doesn't have markings on it. if you're worried use the same insert and a compression fitting. as for the stopcock, you might be best turning off the water in the street and cutting the lead below the 'bulge' and using a lead lock, short...

if you get a Rothenberger nozzle it won't fit the Sievert bottles unless you get an adapter http://www.tradecounterdirect.com/plumbing-tools/gas-burners-accessories/rothenberger-spare-parts/primus-2000-adaptor_type.html i use that Sievert bottle and a Sievert nozzle for years and its done me...

looks like a Sievert re-fillable propane bottle, not sure what the nozzle is, you can get them from most plumbers merchants

you mean a flexible tap connector i think. pretty sure you can get them in 150mm

crack on, its just the same as if you had turned a radiator off, the water will still circulate around the rest of the system no bother. if you ave a combi boiler or a sealed system then you should have a peek at the pressure gauge and make sure thats ok before turning on.

what they've suggested sounds fine, as long as its done in copper and not plastic. you could potentially have boiling hot water and steam coming out of that pipe so it needs to terminate safely, its usually kicked back to the wall so the water will run down the wall and no unfortunate person...

best thing to do would be to change the TRV. it could be stuck even though the pin is moving. shut down the rad valves and take the rad off, have a bucket handy and then open the valves to see if water comes out at a decent rate, if it just trickles out this would suggest you have a blockage.

sounds about right to be fair

the thermostat on the boiler governs the temperature in the boiler that is pumped around the radiators, the room thermostat governs the air temperature in the room that it's in. its normal that the boiler cuts off before the room reaches temperature, are the radiators all piping hot but the...

sounds like a heat only boiler, pop your head into the loft and see if theres an F&E tank

its better to do it before, but its still OK to do it after, or even during, i sometimes connect the machine to the flow and return once the boiler is out. if he's doing it right, the end result will be the same regardless of when its done

it may be bonded as the pipe enters the building, which is acceptable, there's a difference between cross bonding, which some people have where the pipes underneath the boiler are all bonded together for example, and MEB which is cold main, gas, and electric main bonded together. thats should be...

but only when you have to clean off 3 coats to solder it !