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clueless ...

for siphoning, i use a jiggle siphon, http://www.alexshanks.com/jiggle-syphon-c-85-p-440?gclid=CL7Ek92_28cCFVRsGwodYFMOrw you'll need a good hand action to get it started, this guys an expert... he must be married ... skip to 0:40

you have a bypass, but no bypass valve, some boilers don't need one but most do, what could happen is that both 2 port valves will shut when satisfied (no call for heat) but the pump will still run (pump over run, this helps disperse the heat away from the boiler), so there needs to be a path...

try these, you could always take them back if they dont fit http://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-rt212-white-chrome-trv-15mm-angled/25900

yeah, agreed. the silver ring that holds them onto the valve is bust off

the boiler will heat up the same water that's in the radiators, then the mains cold water passes through that to heat up and comes out of your tap hot. if its not dropped consistently i doubt you have a problem

the pressure will fluctuate all the time, when water gets hot it expands and the pressure will go up, when it's cold it'll go down. it also depends on how much water you have in the system, a system with only a few small radiators will show more of a fluctuation than a larger one. also...

sounds like you have gravity hot water, that's state of the art heating technology for 1970 but incredibly inefficient in todays world. if efficiency is important to you then get a new condensing boiler and convert it to fully pumped, either Y or S is good C is still gravity but with a zone...

yeah, the thermostat will shut your heating down in the same way your timer will, for the radiators to heat up and the boiler to burn gas, both the timer and the thermostat need to be calling for heat (turned on & up) also, if you're using the gas boiler to heat your water, make sure that...

the controller in the top picture is for your immersion heater you can change the dual channel timer to something wireless, like a Hive for example https://www.hivehome.com/ or a cheaper way would be just to leave your timer on 24 hours and control your heating from the room thermostat...

when the cold weather hits, it'll go bananas and they'll be looking to take more people on.

don't ever get a flueless gas fire!! not unless you like living dangerously, sounds like your chimney is in a bad way, and unsuitable for a open flued gas fire, is it on an outside wall? if so you might be best getting a balanced / fan flued fire, there's some really nice ones out there. you...

you can do it, the pipe can be difficult to get out the bending machine after and the coating will be rippled at the back of the bend and thinner on the outside.

Worcester Highflows are pretty good and can give you 20 litres a min, that'll be good for multi tap use, but you're still better with unvented HW

you need to separate the heating circuit from the hot water one, also the open vent and cold feed need to come away too.

if you cant find it anywhere obvious and dont want to lift your floorboards and have a look then you could try this... but try and what Picasso suggested first to eliminate the heat exchanger

a little confusing, can you take a pic? the bit in the middle of the brass body is closed when its across the pipe, when its open it will probably be a little over 45' and almost in line with the pipe its on

sounds like its air locked, that pipe that runs along the loft floor will probably be half full of air as its just under the tank. the way to clear it would be to open a mixer tap with both hot, and cold mains and let the mains water blast it through whilst you hold your hand over the tap...

thanks for the replies, ive tidied up all the rat mess, threw out the stinking insulation and literally chucked some cement around the gaps, I've also laid a trap and i'll check back in a few days to see what has taken the bait, the smell has subsided quite a lot, there's still a slight whiff...