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Amazon. I understand that they must be a bit naff, which you don't find out until you get them (and have disposed of the packaging the day before on the tip run!), so I'm just trying to make the best job of it. They're not replying to messages either... ;)

Yes, cable's wired to light fitting and no markings anywhere.

Just two core cable from the bulb fitting which can be cut to suit the 'drop' of the lamp.

Nothing. Quite surprised really. :-( Wifey's bought three of them!

I've some hall lights to fit, with live and neutral only. They don't indicate they're double insulated. Should I connect an eyelight on the existing earth (which is blanked off in the old plastic bayonet terminal block) and attach to the new metal bayonet's ceiling fitting screw? Or just blank...

Hi again Sitting room lighting circuit. And I'm sort of leaning toward sticking new units on the bases, or just replace the whole thing like with like and ditching the RF ones. One thing, had a little look on fleabay and there are loads of the bases for sale (just the base). Why would people...

Maybe that's the answer? And ditch the RF ones. I wonder why they were not used...

Hallway, dining room and sitting room, and no extensions built. There's also another battery only one at end of hallway!

Not easily. The hallway, where both are, is the only bit of loft all tongued and grooved. The 'sitting room' trip turns them off.

Not long moved in and currently decorating. We have two smoke alarm bases in the hallway, now redundant as previous occupier installed battery only rf smoke alarms. These bases are currently live. Can I just maintain their connections and poke wires into ceiling (it's a bungalow, but this bit is...

Yes and maybe! Plus you can try the brackets in both positions now. Edit to say push the valves out towards the centre of the room!

Had the same issue. You can buy 15mm to 1/2BSP converters which'll push out the valve.

Thank you. It's very tight to wall, though, to get an Allen key in. Does turning the nut on the stud do the same thing? Or does the bottom part of the hinge (the white half) come off to reveal some other adjustments? It seems part of the hinge itself. :-(

Just moved in and the back door's skewwhiff and dragging on the laminate floor. I've never seen hinges like this before (four in all) and they're tight against the wall. Can they be adjusted without digging out plasterboard etc? TIA!

I think my worry is a) it's very tight on space (pic one) and b) there's a soldered elbow t'other side of plasterboard (pic 3) which will probably dribble out if I try soldering a stub on the other end. Just wondering if there not any extensions which can be used for this. The rad tail...

If that tail in pic would accept 15mm pipe (it's a gnat's tight), the problem would be solved, as I could use the existing nut and extend the valve out a short way. Are they all this size? :( Edit to say that's just a valve I had lying around to play with some copper and try out my theory.

HI and thanks for reply. The first photo is the one which needs extending out of the wall. Second photo is where it'll need to be lengthwise (as this one's a double); the third photo shows an example of how the rads are plumbed into the wall. This one's excavated because it's going. So...

I was thinking of this sort of thing. Bit of an extension on the feed. https://www.toolstation.com/pegler-mistral-2-trv/p91784

Stud. And it goes through the floor (which I can't get beneath), like the piccy below. This particular rad was screwed to a partition stud wall, and I need to do away with this one anyway, hence the brutalised plasterboard etc.