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No one is going to advise you other than you need to get a Registered Gas Installer in working on gas appliances unregistered is unwise :wink:

To the right hand side of the pump is a grey plastic knob, this is a manual air vent unscrew this a few turns until it hisses and then water will come out (careful as it will be very hot! turn off once water flows freely all should then be OK :wink:

Lets hope your "bodger"?? plumber is not one us reading this, he will certainly be able to work out who you are ......... think before you type is my motto!! :roll:

It might be worth speaking to MHG ( The Mann B&W also made the Strata I & II boilers - MHG seem to be able to get spares for these at much lower prices than other agents (with similar names!!) :wink:

MrDuck I cannot say if it is good or bad, but we are currently fitting Wilo products based on customer service and parts for old pumps availlability :wink:

My Company no longer use Grundfos pumps largely due to early obsolescence of heads for Commercial pumps and due to many problems with the UPS2 range :cry:

Most Wallstars are fitted in the wall higher than the oil tank, (I have only worked on one that was installed at ground height) assuming yours is fitted 5ft approx up the wall, then a non return valve must be fitted, HRM supply a fire valve and NRV combined, however you may have a NRV fitted...

Before ripping out your pump, have you checked that there is voltage at the pump (230vac) between the L & N connections on the pump measured using a multimeter??? :?

In that scenario I would have fitted some sort of vent to the Primary flow connection at the cylinder :wink:

Yes a stainless steel plate with gasket and fixing screw is available from chimney specialist wholesalers you have to stitch drill a suitably sized hole in the existing flue pipe, the new cover/gasket covers the hole to leave an inspection hatch for future use :wink:

The Valve should be up (Spring relaxed) for HW, and down (Spring compressed) for CH are you saying that the radiators are getting hot even though the controls are not calling for heat?

Looking at the picture, when you switch the Pump and mixing valve to the RHS, the control knob will be pointing towards the wall, will threre be sufficient clearance between the manifold and the wall to fit it all in?? adjustment of the mixing valve may be difficult in this orientation :?

Looking at the picture, when you switch the Pump and mixing valve to the RHS, the control knob will be pointing towards the wall, will threre be sufficient clearance between the manifold and the wall to fit it all in?? adjustment of the mixing valve may be difficult in this orientation :?

EDIT those pipes look more like 3/4" steel :wink:

That rad looks like it is on a single pipe system, you will probably want to plug the two pipes where they join the main loop so a drain down is likely unless you can freeze 2" steel? other wise a freeze on the 1/2"? pipes and remove at suitable fitting and plug :wink:

A time clock is a single channel unit so the link is there to ensure that both hot water and heating operate on the time switch, as a programmer is 2 channel, the link has to be cut so that each channel only operates it's dedicated duty :wink:

When a Megaflo is installed there is a 22mm branch near the PRV, this is the "Balanced Cold" connection, however many installers neglect to use this port and so the Cold taps are at higher pressure than the "controlled Hot Water" the first place I would look is any Shower mixing valves - it...

Personally I'd be taking out the pump to make sure that it is running and that the impeller hasn't broken off :wink:

Also - why the hell would you have your heating coming on in AUGUST!! ? :shock: :shock:

As you say the HW valve was stuck open, I suspect that you will need to replace the synchonous motor in the powerhead these can be obtained for around £10 :wink: