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Standard sizes: 6.2 x 71 or 6.2 x 90mm with maximum lengths at 1200mm or in standard "herringbone blocks" Oak Prime and Oak Rustic. For prices, submit your details here and give us the sq meters needed so we can give you our best price including delivery charges (has to come from The Netherlands)

That 12 - or better 11 meters - is applicable in the width, not in the length of the room. Since your rooms are maximum 4 meters I can't see a problem there. As long as it is a rather open plan you could get away with not installing thresholds/dividers As for keeping the rows straight over...

We can supply you with 6.2mm unfinished Solid Oak strips/blocks - don't think this thickness comes pre-finished.

That one is better (and I would go for the 10 sq meter rolls - they weight a ton!)

The link to the underlayment ends up on an "Oops, page no longer available" error. It is the wrong type of underlayment anyway. NEVER use a DPM over existing floorboards or over sheet materials (such as plywood, chipboard etc). It prevents the normal ventilation underneath and can cause...

Most often this advice is given to protect the wooden floor sold and bugger the existing sub/underfloor. Agree with the moist measurement being taken before installation takes place but we would never ever recommend to use a DPM on any wooden surface, be it existing floorboards, existing...

We've been giving proper and professional advice here since Nov 2004, we are professional wooden floor retailers and installers/restorers, based in Kent. Your advice on using DPM over floorboard is incorrect and will not "save" the floor

This is rubbish advice, specially from someone calling himself "floorsave"! It's a known fact that a DPM on floorboards or any sheet material - such as plywood, chipboard etc - can and most often will cause condensation which will effect the existing floorboards and if you're really unlucky...

Only if the carpet underlayment is a breathable type. We've seen a parquet floor - in excellent condition and installed with modern parquet adhesive - being absolutely ruined by installing the wrong type (one that contained a DPM) of carpet underlayment. As if carpet fitters are not being told...

It happens quite often the wrong care/products are installed over an existing parquet floor unfortunately. It's a rule of thumb never to close down a parquet floor with anything that does not allow the "underfloor" to breath - shame really. If the parquet floor has to be removed - I think...

You better reread what the OP has written Lou - most of the area he has have floorboards as underfloor, only a tiny bit is concrete. Your advice puts him on the wrong foot!

What has happened here is that the plastic base of the laminate floor has stopped the normal ventilation of the moist in the concrete etc. This has blown the parquet - which can only "hold" so much moist before it looses its grip. If you remove the laminate and give the original floor time to...

Oak or Maple??? Have you had a proper look at the grain of the parquet in the picture???

Only ever run boards (special solid boards) through doorways IF this door way gap is at least 3/5 of the total width of the largest room you're connecting. Otherwise you are definitely asking for trouble later on. And don't use 7mm fibre board - this will make your floor more prone to bounce

Before you start sanding and oiling (you need to sand before your re-oil your floor) why not try some maintenance first? Every wood floor needs a bit of TLC once in a while (say every 5 - 6 months_ to keep the wear and tear layer healthy and protective against dirt and spillages.

Every room has its own "climate", for instance in a hallway it cold be colder than in the living room. Boards who are installed crossing into both rooms will have trouble "adjusting" to the climate in the rooms: part will be cold, part will be warmer. To avoid problems in regards of this we...

On the floor definitely, on the stairs you could apply your light Ash.

You'll never get a perfect match, so my suggestion is to make it both different: one dark (of its own, using Tropical Combo and one light

see here - same topic

First of all: DON'T USE CORK STRIPS TO FILL YOUR EXPANSION GAPS! It's not needed and will only cause problems when the floor expands (the cork fills the expansion gap) Then, always run a bead of PVAC glue in every groove, otherwise your floor will open up. Thirdly: yes that is correct...