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The floor looks indeed tropical, so best to keep it with a natural finish. The stairs can be finished in the colour you suggested

Osmo, or any hardwaxoil, can give a patchy result on tropical wood-species. Tropical woods are oily of themselves, giving the oil in the HWO not enough time to do its work before the wax in the HWO starts doing its work. Best would be to apply a thin oil first, followed by one coat of HWO

I'm afraid it is definitely the other way round: wood works more in the width than in the length.

It really depends on the wood-species of both, if tropical (reddish/brownish) than you're out of luck to try to stain it light Ash - it;ll never work. Sand down a bit first - this will remove the existing stain and varnish and show you the original wood. Then, with a wet finger, moist the...

Fortunately, those who truly read the book have a better and more honest opinion about it

That still doesn't show me pages on the UK training centres website stating what you are stating. As for European methods, how come you yourself emailed me the American methods to check if we would agree with them - they were to be used at BWFA trainings?

Nailing onto existing floorboards is a good practise, adding underlayment between the two floors isn't. The underlayment will be impressed by the nail and loose its function - waste of money, materials and effort. As for not using a DPM over existing floorboards: the void underneath the...

double entry - removed

Well, I don't think there's a risk of your sofa spilling moist - as a fridge can do. A sofa stands "free-standing" on a floor, a fridge and most other utilities are either firmly against a wall or in between kitchen units, restricting them moving along with the movement of the floor and...

Nope, just utilities which are "blocked" by walls. All the other items are: A) not that heavy and B) are not blocked by a wall. Same applies for other installation methods

It's either a choice of risking cupping of the whole floor of showing a bit of plywood underneath you fridge. If I was you I would not risk it and use plywood

If from Wickes they're bound to be 300 - 1200mm with loads of (too) short lengths, which when installed floating, will make your whole floor unstable and prone to movement. Every joint will act as a hinge, see this article here too

You're right about that, or you have to wriggle a bit. How random - minimum and maximum length - are the random lengths?

How wide and long is your solid wood floor? If narrower than 100mm and many - too many - short lengths, you should not install such a floor floating but fully bonded to the concrete or if you go over existing floorboards nailing them. As for where to start the installation: in front of the...

I'm not interested in what you read in it, I was asking the rest of the public. You give training/courses, so you're biased. Have you found a webpage yet to show all of us about what you're saying in regards of certification? Plus the reason why UK training centres are focussing on the USA...

That's what I mean with clear communication. If anyone would read the following: "BWFA The Training School has relocated to a state of the art facility in Earlswood, Solihull and is offering a wide range of courses for all levels . Feed back from the courses has been excellent and...

So show me, and the rest, webpages of the UK training centres where I can read what you say. That's another point missing in our trade - clear communication.

BWFA: 2 and 3 day training Fita: 2 days basic, 3 days intermediate Floorskills (wow, your name is mentioned): 2 days basic For those who know some Dutch: Gildevaert (now RCOM) wood floor fitter: 2 years followed by allround wood floor fitter - again 2 years

double entry - removed

European training centres - at least where we originate from: The Netherlands - don't give 2 - 5 day trainings to wooden floor installers. It takes 2 days per month for 2 - 3 years to get your certificate. Not like here in the UK where most, if not all, give you a certificate after 1 or at...