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Nope, it's worthless (because who would accept all those loose fingers covered in bitumen?) Depending on the floor covering planned, you could try to screed over the bitumen - using Ardex NA

Depends on how you plan to install your new floor. If nailed directly onto the ply - no underlayment needed If fully bonded with flexible adhesive - no underlayment needed If installed floating over it: use an underlayment that does NOT contain a DPM

Not sure exactly what you mean. You have a room which contains 5 finger mosaic already installed and you want to know if bitumen had been used? Depends on the era of the installation - safe to say that installed in the 50 up to the 80's it would have been bitumen. But... it depends on the...

ALWAYS, ALWAYS leave an expansion gap!

ALWAYS, ALWAYS leave a gap around the perimeter of a wooden floor, parquet blocks or not. 10mm at least.

Jarrah, being a tropical wood-species, is "oilier" than Oak or other blond wood species. HardWaxOil could give you a patchy result, because the oil in this product won't have enough time to do its work - penetrating the wood for long term protection - before the wax - giving you the ear and...

You could try Saicos Wax-Care polish

We completely agree with what Osmo told you: HardWaxOils on tropical species is bound to go wrong. Tropical wood species are "oily" of themselves. HWO contains two products: one oil to penetrate the wood for long term protection and wax to create your wear and tear layer. On an "oily" floor...

Depending on the original finish used, it might just be a bit of polish. See here for more options.

That's great, you can use Basicoll straight away then

Instead of heat, to remove a bit more from the bitumen, place the blocks in a freezer and then chisel the bitumen off. Then use Basicoll PU-650SE to bond it to your floor

I would opt for plywood

If you can stand the long and cumbersome work to clean off all the little fingers (because that'll happen when you try to lift this type of floor) to reduce the old bitumen on them.

NEVER EVER install a DPM over parquet blocks! This will restrict the natural evaporation of moist in the concrete/blocks and will cause problems in the long run How about painting a liquid dpm over the concrete and then using a foam (without DPM) underlayment over everything

I stand corrected ;-) (no booze while working though - just coffee)

20mm, such as the Hattan Range, is suitable to be installed straight over joists - as long as the joists are no further apart than 40mm

For starters: DON'T USE CORK STRIPS TO FILL YOUR EXPANSION GAP, specially not in bathrooms - never ever really. Don't screw your floor by screwing it down, not even one board or row. It will restrict any movement - specially in bathrooms - when it wants to expand And as last one: don't go...

NA Ardex is the product to use

Could now be down to expansion forces, I would leave it be for the time being

If you want to "screw your floor" you'll use screws. Never ever use this to settle lifting of the floor Moist needs its own time to evaporate, so start ventilating