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When the weather is nice, open the frontdoor to help the excess moisture to escape. 9 times out of 10 this will settle the floor down again.

Solid Oak floorboards in kitchens is asking for trouble to be honest. There's a lot of moisture in there: cooking, washing etc. You would be better off getting a load-bearing wood-engineered board: much more stable

We've seen cases where sweating of tiles, during a period of high air humidity caused such an effect. Before you tell someone to dig out the whole floor I would suggest he takes a more cautious approach

Now everything is removed from the floor, does it dry out normally or does it still show signs of moist? Looking at the barrier underlayment and the tiles it has been on, it could well be - due to the high air humidity we've been having over late - extensive sweating of the tiles and a tiny...

Any patios outside that are flush against the house without a gap? Any "accidents" by pets? Sounds you have a moisture problem, finding the cause of it will be detective work. The last heavy rains could have triggered this "moist" if the DPM underneath the concrete has been breached

You could apply a flexible adhesive, such as Basicoll PU-650SE to be sure

I would apply a liquid dpm on the concrete

How wide is this concrete threshold?

cheers for this. I don't hear it, my partner does - he might be rather sensitive to noises.

WE moved house recently to an area where Virgin media has access. We opted for the tivo-box and are wondering if it is normal the box buzzes?

Wondering who advised you this??? None of the modern adhesives will "fuse" bitumen covered blocks. It's always best to remove as much as the bitumen you can, placing them in a freezer for instance will make it more brittle and easier to chisel off.

do you know if the floor was originally installed using bitumen - black tar? If so, that might be causing the problem, getting old and brittle

Why not use gmail? (google mail) Has contact etc and tasks just like Outlook https://accounts.google.com/ServiceLogin?service=mail&passive=true&rm=false&continue=https://mail.google.com/mail/ca/&ss=1&scc=1&ltmpl=default&ltmplcache=2

Ask a local joiner to make you bespoke "ramps" and use these as thresholds

On concrete floors: fully bonding with flexible adhesive such as Basicoll PU-650SE On existing floorboards: secret nailing with a Portonailer.

No they won't. Never seen clips that do this, clips are horrible and have no use at all (except for the seller)

So 21mm wood-engineered is not real wood flooring? You're still better off with a decent multi-layer board, if with "real wood flooring" you mean a solid wood floor. As for fully glueing down any wooden floor, might not be possible over your quarry tiles.

Underlayment to be used when installing floating on exiting floorboards or any sheet materials (such as chipboard of plywood) should not contain a DPM, just a sound insulation layer. Some underlayments come with a DPM attached/combined to it and can cause condensation when used on...

It really depends on the size (length) of the Oak boards if you can install this type of flooring using the floating method. If random length - as many "cheap offers" are - with too many short lengths you'll get too many joints, all acting like hinges. If this is not the case, use a foam...

Compared with Osmo the Saicos is pretty "quick"