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It shouldn't be controlling your boiler in any way - but is it there to operate a booster pump when a tap is opened? - at the end of the day it must be doing something, are there wires connected to it? if so it must be serving a purpose do not remove it until you are sure of the implications of...

You will be looking at boiler relocation - it is not acceptable to simply fit a plume management kit as the air intake and POC outlet would be in different pressure zones YOU MUST CONSULT A REGISTERED GAS ENGINEER before going any further with your plans :wink:

The complete valve in pic 1 (15mm) has a twist to lock head, however you state that your valve is 1/2" BSP, and if so the remote dial head in pic 2 will be a straight swap. :wink:

Sadly the design will not work and could be potentially dangerous is there no space in the attic for the store? although this may need structural work to achieve due to the weight of a full store :wink:

I urge you to get hold of the Danfoss book "Facts worth knowing about oil nozzles" - an excellent publication which includes a quick reference giving Kw input with different nozzles sizes/oil pressure no maths required!! :wink:

Number of occupants especially teenage children, they use electricity by the Mw, and are always in the shower!!

It is not an expansion vessel you require, it is a Hydronic Accumulator which must be fitted with a membrane suitable for potable water ask a local pump servicing company for advice on type and size :wink:

Why not use a large plastic bucket that has contained readymix cement?? I use a rectangular small water tank the type typically used as an F&E cistern (although these are not so easy to come by these days!!) :wink:

Having Commissioned a couple of the new latest "much improved" Greenstar Heatslaves, I would still never fit one in my House!! the only oil combi I would recommend would be a Grant Vortex but as said a standard boiler and unvented hot water cylinder would be a better option :wink:

OP you have received a lot of good advice and assistance on this but all you want to do is pick holes in everything you are told I'M OUT! :roll:

£84+Vat :wink:

Us suffolk boys are also taking steps to avoid!! :shock:

Your pillock would do well by looking at the photocell or control box, or is the "pillock" really you ????

Get yourself a "REAL" engineer if the burner Locks out OF COURSE it is oil related!!!!!!! pillock!! :roll: :shock:

No idea! :shock: :roll:

Having no flexible liner does NOT constitute a "Bodge" :shock: over many years there have been many different methods for conventional flue systems, so the fact that your's didn't use a flexible liner doesn't mean it was badly installed as long as it complied with the regulations in force AT...

If the flying lead is supplied with the pump then it MUST be fitted (original versions of the UPS2 had internal suppresion but this was problematic so a loose lead was supplied. You say the N & L are the wrong way round, but how do you know this, have you checked using a multimeter between...

Whilst James's comments are a little harsh, there is more than an element of truth in them. A solenoid coil usually fails after the burner has been running for a while, but you state that it will not fire at all so I agree with James you do need to get a Burner Service Engineer in to diagnose...

Good post Andrew!! I have just been quoted 48.8p/litre for Class C2 Kerosene assuming 10Kw/litre it equals 4.9p per Kw/h now that compares very well even against Natural Gas!! :wink:

Some "plumbers"?? only install new systems where you hang radiators and then run pipes to them in this scenario the pipes are already there, so it is essential to accurately work out and mark the position of the brackets so that when you hang the radiators the pipes line up with the unions it...