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A picture of the regulator/cylinder set up would be useful.

That's what the condensate pipe is for. You won't like it but my advice is to get a GSR engineer in. There are several things that can cause this, none of which are a DIY repair.

Is that an unvented cylinder? Looks like a pressure reducing valve and an expansion relief valve in the picture with a stop tap after it on the feed to the cylinder. If so that is very wrong, there should be no valves between the cylinder and the expansion relief valve.

You've got no option but to repipe it properly. Vent to correct cistern and pump fitted to the manufacturers instructions after the vent pipe or from a warix/surrey flange.

Honeywell controls are generally reckoned to be amongst the best although they had a reliability issue with their programmers a few years ago.

It doesn't matter what appliances you choose you will only get 17 l/min shared between all outlets unless you fit a booster set or an accumulator to increase the flow rate.

The incoming flow will be shared between all of the open outlets with those closer to the stop tap taking more.

17l/min is not that great, especially if you want to run two outlets at once. I work on needing twice the required hot water flow rate on the incoming main as a rule of thumb. So if you have a 24Kw combi giving 9 l/min I'd like to see 18 l/min into the property. This gives leeway for a cold...

Needs replacing. Not with another EP though there have been a lot of quality issues with the new ones.

No, that's a system cleanser.

Condensate pipes should not discharge into guttering. It's possible for it to pool in the gutter and birds may come and bathe in it. The condensate is acidic enough to burn the feathers off a baby bird. Especially in the summer when some of the water has evaporated.

Can you post a picture of the pipework configuration around the cylinder and boiler? My money is on incorrect hot water return position causing reverse circulation.

Probably the cuts on the old sleepers. As soon as you feel the chain start to lose it's edge you should stop and resharpen it.

I've just fitted a Joule slimline unvented and it's a nice bit of kit. My merchants have swapped to Joule from Gledhill because of better customer service. To date they have sold around 50 with no negative feedback.

if the boiler is not in a cupboard you may find yourself in problems regarding the zoning of electrical equipment in bathrooms. You need to check on the sparky forum.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/tools/threading-tools/rethreading-screwdrivers/?searchTerm=rethreader

Have a look at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-PAIRS-OF-NEW-NITRILE-COATED-WORK-GLOVES-CONSTRUCTION-GARDARDENING-/181067614381?pt=UK_BOI_ProtectiveGear_RL&var=&hash=item2a287888ad I use this sort of glove and will generally get a full week out of a pair. I'm quite tough on gloves as I'm a...

Must have been one hell of a pump to cost £350 to change it.

What you have is an Isle of Mann key which is not designed to operate the drain offs that you are trying to tighten. A radiator bleed key normally fits these valves.

I don't think there's an overheat stat on these so shouldn't be used on a combined.