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Pretty much. If there's an area below the floor that you may need to access in future (lighting transformers, air extractor motor or whatever else) make a hatch door? Or don't glue slivers over that area?!

Whatever you do, you need to go back to bare wood in order to ensure a proper key for the new coating. Applying a Hard Waxoil over a lacquer WILL NOT WORK. There are some cross-bonding prep products out there, but they aren't cheap and would defeat the object of your project! What sander you...

Yes, that's one of the ones I mentioned and I've had some tremendous results with it in the past. Important thing is always to try it on a board or an off cut first since there can be variation in how these products look on different woods. Once you're happy, just brush a thin, even coat on...

You'll find that a Hard Waxoil is not the same as wax. Were it just wax, I would agree with you - wax, even residual traces of it in sanded wood, can affect adhesion of subsequent coatings of a great deal of other products. But when it is Hard Waxoil that has cured (generally when it is over...

Best bet would probably be to sand back to bare wood and apply either the Polyx Oil Effect Raw to keep that bare pale look, or as you say, some other darker oil that will better mask the orange effect that occurs from exposure to sunlight over time and from contact with solvent based products...

Yes, I'd spotted you were the same poster only after I'd hit reply! When you say 'light', is that as in looking like it does after being sanded, or are you thinking light like a light grey/white tint in the grain? Hard Waxoils are slightly trickier to apply than varnish (or lacquers as they...

When you're sanding, go fairly coarse first (say a 40 or 60 grit - the exact number will be determined by the depth of any indentations rather then any surface born matter) then work up to a 100 or even 120 (the higher the grit number the finer the the sanding finish). You don't want to go any...

For the cost involved in buying the laminate and effort in fitting it, I'd say definitely worth sanding back the existing floor and resealing. If you don't want to hire the sanding machines, there are one man bands out there who'll do it for £5-6sqm and then you could do the oiling or lacquering...

Possibly some confusion with the terms here but either way a stain is just that - a stain that colours the wood's fibres - and provides no protective properties at all. Varnishes for floors are these days known as lacquers and these come in a variety of sheen levels - dead flat, matt, gloss etc...

You could try Bona Traffic lacquer. Is water based so won't yellow the wood and at the matt or extra matt end of the sheen options, is as flat as the Blanchon Original Wood Environment (and that is a product we had to pull from our finish range - endless problems with customer call backs because...

You could try the Pall-X Extreme lacquer by Pallman. We tend to use this on floors in very high traffic areas - hotel lobbies, restaurants etc. Make sure to buy the optional, dedicated hardener that is mixed in and when set, really is the toughest we have ever used. Don't get confused with the...

As long as you've got at least 2mm left of the wear layer, you should be ok to sand back. Though do check if there's been any obvious impact damage in a particular area that might necessitate deeper sanding - once you expose the core below, the board is finished!

In my experience the finish that you expect to apply to the sanded floor will in part determine some of the preparation, and in particular remedying the gaps. Have you thought about whether it'll be lacquer (and whether you'll be staining it beforehand) or Hard Waxoil (and whether you'll be...

When it comes to varnished or lacquered (different names for the same product) floors, you've not really got much option but to sand and reseal. Some manufacturers offer refresher products but these need to key to a clean topcoat of lacquer and so no real benefit to you if patches of bare wood...

Thanks both. Will get the 2kg type and hang on to the cash saved!!

I want to buy an SDS drill but quite confused by all that are available. Am I really getting much more with these larger 3-4kg models than the sub 2kg ones that resemble the conventional design of drill? I am renovating my flat so happy to spend more on the bigger type if it does massively more...