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That sounds like a 3/8" BSP thread. A 1/2 X 3/8 reducer should help do the job.

An AAV is not a substitute for an open vent. It is specifically designed NOT to release trapped air and sewer gases. You should have an open vent stack at the head of your drain run to relieve both positive and negative pressures. AAVs should only be fitted on secondary stacks where traps...

47.65mm is a tad tight for 1½" BSP, but only just (1½" BSP has a major diameter of 47.803). 1¼" BSP has a major diameter of 41.91 mm. the two sizes are commonly used for sink and basin wastes.

The claimed advantage of 12 Volt fittings is a stable supply voltage prolonging lamp life and giving a better colour light. However, halogen spotlights are a hopelessly inefficient way of lighting a room when compared with other lighting technologies. IMO halogen spotlights are poor even...

It may be worth looking at swimming pool plumbing fittings instead of domestic waste fittings. They are a bit chunkier to cope with pumped water pressures, and usually use solvent weld or 'proper' pipe unions.

The grouping of the terminals of the old switch is NOT top & bottom, as your post suggests. It is left and right. Note the raised diagonal line moulded in the plastic on the back of the old switch. That is the division between the left and right switch units. Each half has three terminals...

If the traps were gurgling before, there may be an issue with the venting arrangements for the soil system, or at least that branch. Some seem to consider fitting an AAV to be a panacea for all soil stack problems, but that is not the case. They only relieve negative pressures, they will do...

A washing machine and a tumble drier are usually capable of drawing something close to 13 Amps EACH - so it's not really surprising they pop a 13 Amp fuse if used together. Each appliance should be plugged into it's own socket. There will always be a limit of 13 Amps on any plug-in adapter...

Are you aware that a fluorescent lamp is already an 'energy saving' lamp? Many 'energy saving bulbs' are just a fluorescent tube tightly coiled up and crammed into a space about the size of an ordinary 'light bulb' at some cost to it's efficiency.

IF the cable is just carrying ELV at signal levels, and no mains voltages, an alarm / structured wiring / telecomms cable may be adequate.

Lighting circuits usually follow a branching or radial topology, so it's usual to find just one cable at the CU - unless one of the branches originates at the CU - so there would be nothing unusual in what your electrician proposes. Ring circuits for sockets follow a ring topology, so both...

I've still got a tub - it makes a great paperweight!

I hope you don't intend feeding mains pressure water into an open vented hot water storage cylinder :shock: Open vented cylinders are not designed to work at mains water pressures, and things will get very messy and very wet very quickly if you try. Unvented cylinders are available, but...

IME the tapered threads on rad. valve tails need at least twice as much more PTFE tape than you would expect. I usually wrap so much around the threads that the fitting will only just start in the hole. Sometimes that takes 20 turns or more. Then wind the tail in with the key/spanner. PTFE...

The tape is for covering any exposed raw edges if you need to cut any panels to get your chosen F/F to fit nicely. Also comes in handy if (when) the factory fitted trim strips start falling off.

a wipe of sealant around the underside of the top flange when you put the waste fitting back in the tub won't go amiss either. similar with the overflow fitting. Check the flexible pipe between overflow and waste is secure, without any splits or cracks.

I've been at the GF's house, investigating a noise she only notices in the bedroom at night... honest!... Anyways, it seems like it's coming from the neighbour's boiler. I'm more than a little concerned about the neighbour's flue installation. Both properties are 1930s bungalows, with about a...

15mm diameter sounds like 3/8" BSP. 1/2" would be about 19mm.

Many bathroom extractor fans have a permanent live electrical feed for a run-on facility, so they are powered up in a 'standby mode' 24/7, not just when you turn the light on. Turning the light on just sends a signal to the timer to start spinning the fan.

Leaks rarely get better by themselves, so there's not really any alternative to re-making the leaking joint. At least you only have to close both valves and drain just the radiator you are working on. Use plenty of PTFE tape on the tapered threads of the tail. I keep winding it on until the...