Search results

'Volt Free' or 'Dry' contacts means the device itself does not apply power or a signal to it's output. It usually provides two or three contacts (Common, Normally Open and / or Normally Closed) The signal is usually provided from somewhere else in the wiring, and connected to the 'common'...

The IDC connectors in the socket are now probably goosed if you have used a knife or screwdriver blade on them, so budget for a new socket. If you already have an NTE5 socket then the line should connect to the screw terminals labelled A and B on the back of the mid-plate, not the IDC...

Bear in mind that towel warmers are usually meant to be just towel warmers. They usually contribute little to space heating, even less once they are draped with an insulating layer of towels.

There's usually little need for a washer between tap and basin. A wipe of sealant on the base of the tap before assembly usually does the job. However, a decent washer UNDER the basin, and a decent backnut, brass for preference, can do wonders for rigidity. Sometimes plastic backnuts split...

Exactly what is tripping? An MCB or an RCD? Just testing the resistance of an immersion element is unlikely to tell you much about any earth faults in the element, so test between the element and it's case / the hot cylinder as well. A good element will have a resistance of about 20 Ohms...

The spec for 3/4" iron pipe shows the outside diameter as 26.9mm. Imperial pipework is known by the bore of the pipe. Metric pipe is described by the outside diameter. As plumbers, and just about everyone else who makes and uses pipework is really only interested in what goes on inside...

That could be an issue with door seals or door alignment allowing warm air into the compartment, where the moisture it holds forms more ice than anticipated, eventually overtaking the 'defrost' cycle ... Where did the melt water go when you defrosted it?

Baby alarm / monitor srt up so you can either hear your washing going around, or one that sounds an alarm when the 'baby' (tumble drier) stops 'breathing' (churning your washing around) The technology to install a phone SIM card in something like a tumble driermust exist somewhere, so it...

You would normally put the cut ends against the walls. Using the piece you cut from the 'north' end of one row as the first piece at the 'south' end of the next row automatically puts the cut ends towards the walls, so there's no unfinished edges to worry about. If things work out well, you...

It looks like you will need another wire to link the switched live outputs of the PIRs. That wire should also be linked to the 'live' connection of the fitting without a PIR in place of the permanent live. As to why only one slight works at the moment, what is connected to what at the...

Not so much loss as you may think - most of the energy expended on compressing the air on the compression stroke is regained on the 'power' stroke as the compressed air charge in the cylinder expands again, even if there's no fuel being burnt.

Chances are the screws will have a standard metric thread, so you may be able to source some replacements from a fastener supplier. I would guess M6 or M8 countersunk head screws would do the job. I would prefer stainless steel to zinc or cadmium plated, as they are less likely to corrode.

It's most likely a problem at the first 'faulty' light or switch, or at the last 'good' fitting on the circuit - assuming you know how the lighting is cabled....

Undo the small retaining screw and remove the plastic wheelhead, and see if there's a hexagonal gland nut around the valve shaft. If there is, try tightening it down a little to compress the gland packing against the shaft. If that has no effect, undo the nut, and add a bit of soft...

That looks right for a bellset 26 from the 1970s, as does the label. FWR 77/1 = (manufacturer code) + (year / month it was produced) Earlier ones had a bakerlite cover. That one has an ABS cover with fixing screws. Later ones had a clip-on ABS cover, and a 741 / 746 telephone circuit board...

Are you aware that due to the logarithmic nature of the dB scale, a decrease in attenuation of 3dB is a very significant difference? It actually represents a doubling of the power level on the line. A typical reason for a gain of exactly 3dB in signal level is removing a 'double termination'...

If you remove the plate, and there's enough space behind it, you may be able to consider drilling through the leak, and putting a nut and bolt through the hole, with a red fibre washer either side to seal it. You should be able to turn your water back on with the heating F&E tank ball valve...

A poorly supported pipe left waving around in the breeze could rattle about with the hose on the end removed, but replacing the hose (and filling it with water?) may lend it enough extra support / rigidity / extra mass to stop it making a noise. Either eliminating the 'dead leg' completely...

Not agood idea if the 'spacer'incorporates the driving dog and/or a centreing spigot. IME pressed steel guards on angle grinders and the like are no great work of accuracy on the part of the manufacturers. In a similar situation I removed the guard and 'modified' the clearances with a few...

Your fridge and freezer should feature in the list of 'usual suspects'. Frost free ones usually have a tray to catch melt water from their defrost cycle mounted on top of the motor. The theory is the heat from the motor evaporates the melt water, but sometimes the tray overflows...