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    Crack on brick wall

    nowt to worry about mate
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    Blade runner plasterboard cutter

    the plasterers i work with love them and from watching them work i can see why, neat and quick
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    Gyproc blade runner

    excellent! the plasterers at the work love them, they were freebies right enough though
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    SLED RUNNER

    Any other brickies used these? http://www.marshalltown.com/Products.aspx?D=100&S=117&C=C1068
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    Fotings

    sorry to hijack this post but why are all the spec's for founds down south so deep? Usually in scotland 200mm deep concrete, 200mm scarcement each side and 250mm frost cover is standard
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    Is it possible to repoint this?

    as long as it's just a shed and you don't mind a bit of hard work use a plugging chisel and mash hammer and/or a mortar pick. Personally i would render with a 1-6 mortar for a better appearance.
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    Easy way of getting motar between bricks?

    slate's a good idea, another tip, roll up lengths of newspaper tuck it in 10mm, fill from the other side with semi-dry 1-3 mortar untill tight, remove newspaper and fill remaining 10mm, full bed, job done
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    Some gabions/ retaining/ fill advice?

    couple of quick points on your wall just in case; make it at least 225mm thick block on flat, leave weep holes 900mm apart, taper your drainage peas off to channel the water to the weepers, i would use smaller chips too
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    Clarke Tools

    I just recieved a machine mart catalogue and was wondering if the clarke tools were any good? There's a lifetime guarantee on some socket/spanner etc. sets, which is good enough for me! Does anyone else have any experience of their tools, especially power tools.
  10. C

    Plastering

    8 QUID A METRE
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    Fire lintel...such a thing?

    a fire lintel is made the same way as a concrete lintel apart from the fact that it skews back at an angle to allow the smoke to flow unobstructed to the chimney, as long as there's nothing smoking in the fireplace you'll be fine
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    Wet bricks

    got a photo?
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    Would the wall fall down ?

    as long as you don't disturb the bearings of the lintel you'll be fine, use a petrol/electric cutterfor neatness. remember to use a dpc when you close the cavity
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    gable end cutting

    i agree with the guys with the photos good old hammer and bolster does the job too. trowels are for moving the mortar from the board to the wall
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    Trying to find some jack or small acro prop for a 600mm job

    cut a steel scaffold tube to 400ish, put an adjustable base plate on, something flat or another plate at the top, robert's your fathers brother
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    Silverline Tools?

    don't do it
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    your favourite tape measure-recomendation

    http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?TYPE=CATEGORY&CATEGORY=HT_TAPES_POWERLOCK i like the eight metre ones of these, cheaper five metre stanleys. Fisco and Stabila are good too
  18. C

    Builders Extras on single storey extension

    Board/skim exterior wall of diner to make up for cavity size £250 no comprende?
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    Steel Beam into Cavity Wall without pillar?

    i would imagine not i'm afraid, i'm not a structural engineer but a 6m beam carrying the whole upstairs should carry a minimum bearing of 150mm (usually more) in my experience. If i were designing this i would probably insist on engineering brick piers built into the existing structure. Consult...
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    Making doorway into garage

    http://www.catnic.com/lintels/CG50-100.aspx this should do, if you think you might need a slightly heavier duty one they are available
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