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i just think he got these two the wrong way round.

if it did only require a new motor it would have been roughly £12.

hopefully you've made a few errors on your diagram (good effort by the way). the vent from the top of the cylinder should exit over the cold water storage tank. there should be a vent over the feed & expansion tank from the primary side. you show two pipes coming from the f/e tank ?

its not a 'helpful observation'. the etiquette on this site is not to open multiple threads on the same topic.

i assume you've turned it on at the programmer. if the motor in the valve is getting power & not turning then a new motor is required.

far easier to mount rads with screws in center of vertical slots. then its simple to raise or lower the rad by 10mm or so.

any significant difference higher or lower.

use it. fernox or sentinal are two good uns.

the stat is just a switch. you can buz/resistance test across the two connections whilst moving the temp up & down. mind you this will not tell you whether it is out of calibration. the resistance across the element should be about 18 ohms.

blrs good. in the op you mention the pump is in the loft. can you do a line diagram of the exact configuration. i assume it is open vent.

it makes no difference where the pump is fitted as long as it is on the flow between the blr & 3 port.

best to show a photo of what you've got.

:?: sounds like air perhaps ? more details on the system & its controls req. sealed or open vent ? does ch/hw work etc.

:?:

the mixer valves on these are very suspect.

if on thread does not succeed then start another. http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=151592

you've never seen a plumber with a corgi reg :?:

£429.43 give or take £40,000.

wot corgi. this one :?: ah ah corgi gone now Agile.