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luckily not going the route of two way switching too GU10 downlighters, and was thinking that if the housing that the wago connectors are in, is small enough to fit through one of the light fitting holes (like an LV transformer) it means they are accessible :wink:

probably best then to have the live feed appear in the switch box, as mentioned above, therefore having all the connections accessible.

the question was neatest way, I offered a suggestion if they were complaint. If they are not, then what's the alternatives ?

well, :wink: they're not screw

so the question still stands.....

(sorry - just edeted to remove "crimps")

well, they're pretty permanent compression connectors as once the conductor is pushed in, it cannot be pulled out or released Hence the question if they they were complaint...

on the wall ? it's going under the floor

The switch just has the switch circuits (6 x 1.0mm), they run up the wall into the ceiling (under the first floor, floor) the incoming live appears there, as does the six cables going to each lighting circuit. These look like the neatest way.....

i/c live feed, dropped switch feeds and feeds to lamps all appear at the same point. Suggestions for neatest way to loop-in/out all six circuits without using multiple junction boxes found these Wago push connectors - look neat in one housing...

yup, I have one that gives out a very faint glow, all others are ok

Sorry, it's just that domestic power is AC and by its very nature doesn't have a defined polarity as it alternates 50times/second. That said, Live and Neutral should be kept as such, throughout the wiring. If you think about a standard bulb, (bayonet, push and twist) it has the two terminals...

is this a trick question ?

I've been trialling L.E.D. "entertainment" lights and I must say I'm very impressed, despite the price of that monster above, equivalent 250w LED "moving head" and "flower" effects and they are VERY comprible in brightness and cost, but have the benefits of LED (longevity, size, power, weight...

There may be a reason you have to stick with CFL's (or alternative low wattage 'bulbs') try looking for "quick start" versions. You may find just replacing just one or even two, will give you enough instant light.

slower warm-up times - Ideal for the bathroom when you're half asleep 8)

A very quick mock-up from left to right 11w CFL / 5w led / 3w led / 3w led / 50w Halogen (the 3w leds are different manufacturers) Not the best representation. I'll get some shots of output and beam patters (with fixed camera settings for comparison) First impressions (as...

Tesco is offering five of its own energy saving light-bulbs for 40p. However, due to an error on the computer they are 29p for five. They go through the till at £1 each, then the VAT is reduced on the FULL £10. and only then is the discount is removed, resulting in the price of 29p for 5...

Definitely stays on when only the lighting cct's fuses removed ? At best it could have been connected to the ring via a fused spur. As you've already indicated the use of a "chock box", I'd recommend getting in an electrician

1 x battery 1 x solar panel 1 x charger/regulator and get some lights. Personally i'd go for caravan 12v fluorescent ones as saves the use of an inverter