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Hi all, I'm undergoing a 2 story extension at the moment. The builder has long finished building me a shell. Anyway I've pretty much finished decking out the downstairs element which included fireboarding a fair bit of structural steel. Upstairs I have a breakthrough from the top of my stairs...

Thanks for the reply. Yeah I've bought 2100mm high ones at a very good price. Made to measure put a significant increase on the price compared to what I've paid. Frank - Thanks for the reply, that's exactly what I was thinking. Basically it would be a spacer rather than taking any sort of load.

Hi all, I'm fitting bifolds 3m wide by 2.1m high into my house. The issue is I have an imperial sized opening on the height, so it's around 25-30mm too large. They are top hanging bifolds. Ideally I'd fill the gap at the top so that I don't create a step at the bottom. Any advice on what to...

Thanks Woody. Ceiling level it is then. Yeah not planning to occupy either roof space, with the exception of a sun tunnel coming through the top roof void. Main thing was I wanted to check that rafter ventilation isn't part of the regs these days.

Hi all, I'm nearing the end of my extension. I'm having a new roof section at the top of the house that merges into the existing roof. I'm also having a new ground floor pitched roof at the back of the house. I've been trying to research insulation regulations but I can't find a clear answer...

Thanks. Still not 100% sure what I'm going to do. I'd like to be able to leave the screed and quarry tiles in place and pour a levelling compound over the top. However I'm worried that the existing screed is a bit dodgy in places. I've knocked some of it up and its only 30mm or so deep with a...

Thanks for the reply. So are you saying I could put down the screed, and then put a liquid DPM on top (before smoothing compound) which will mitigate against the long drying time? I might just go straight into a deep fill levelling compound. Something that does up to 50mm like this product...

Hi all, I've posted about screed / self levelling compound advice in the building forum: http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/screed-self-levelling-compound-help.439900/ I was advised to come here when asking about drying time of screed before progressing with my Karndean preparation. What's the...

So basically where there's screed, rip it up and relay it so I need less self levelling compound at the end? I had thought about doing that (it would certainly save £££ on levelling compound). My main concern though is drying time for screed. How long would you recommend? I've read some long...

That is an option. So basically you're saying, bring the concrete level up? That's not something I'd considered as I'd assumed it would be liable to cracking, same as a thin screed? If I remove the tiled area including screed then I'll be left with about 50-60mm depth to fill in about half the...

Hi all, I'm in the middle of an extension. I'm opening up a kitchen diner space as well extending it. This leaves me with multiple floor levels with internal walls grounded. Part of this is made up of quarry tile, part made up of solid concrete, and part made up of existing screed. I'm...

Thanks for the reply. Not sure on whether I'll put a newel in or just have the return section flush with the top stair, and no "barrier" as such.

I mean because part of the string would stick out into the existing staircase and at the top because they're not against the wall. See the 2 bits I've circled in the picture below. That's the way its working in my head anyway. I'd be concerned that trimming that top bit would lose strength...

Hi all, I'm in the middle of my extension. Builder is doing the brickwork, steels, roof, floor, and I'm doing the rest. My existing staircase is a straight staircase with a small landing near the top and then a 4 stair riser to the right onto the existing landing. There's a new bedroom which...

Anyone? Thanks

If I run my 40mm waste and my 68mm drainpipes straight into 110mm adaptors under floor level, do I still need traps under ground level or are they OK to run straight into my inspection chamber? What is the criteria to have traps under ground level versus running straight into the chamber? Thanks

Thanks for the reply. Yeah I definitely don't want that :-) I've tried not to bore you all with too much detail, but I'm doing an extension at the moment. That gives me good access to below the bathroom as the ceiling is down and to the stack. The situation I described initially is my end state...

Thoughts on the horizontal 110mm plan connecting into the stack? Thanks Jon

Thanks for the info, I'll have a read through that. Just to be clear my plan was to drop all 3 runs into the 50mm pipe individually. They'll be dropping into the top of it. I could potentially swap the 50mm pipe for a 110mm pipe that connects to the stack instead. Presumably that would be better?

The stack is the other side of the wall in the next room. It will be around 1 metre from the shower, 3 metres from the bath and 4 metres from the sink. Doing an individual run for all of them is very difficult with the access available. Is what I'm proposing compliant to regulations?