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A lockable switch next to the CU would not be easy, it is quite a new build flat with the meter and mains fuse recessed in the outside wall, and the CU recessed above but on the inside wall, all wiring hidden in wall. Thanks for the suggestion though.

I have considered locking off the breaker, but on occasions it will be a carer helping with meals, I know some people are not keen on anything electrical and might not be happy fiddling inside consumer unit, so not sure if it would be a good idea (although it would be the easiest solution)

Thanks for quick reply, mum has early signs of some sort of dementia, social worker wants cooker switching off permanently, but that is going to make it very difficult for family members helping with meals. So i've suggested a lockable switch (was thinking an industrial type rotary isolator and...

Would putting an extra isolation switch between the cooker connection unit and the cooker need any form of notification etc. the original circuit in the wall will not need any alteration, the switch would be mounted in the adjacent base unit. Thanks for any help

Are you still getting problems with starting ? Is there a clear plastic fuel pipe close to the fuel filter, if so check for air bubbles in this pipe with engine running, if there are any bubbles it is pulling air in. If this is the engine i'm thinking it is (not sure what year your car is) there...

Often when the engine doesn't seem to turn over properly sometimes even like a flat battery, it can be due to the crank sensor, engine is attempting to fire at the wrong time

Not sure if this has been mentioned on here, although it seems to be doing the rounds on other forums. http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=429641 Scroll down to post no 14 to find not the brightest thief

The plug you have removed looks like the gearbox level plug, the engine sump plug is on the other side of the car, from memory at the back of the sump (13mm socket i think)

I'm not familiar with volt guard, does it only have a reset button, no other led's which might indicate a fault. Is it possible to by-pass or disconnect the volt guard system

Might be worth a look on the transit forum http://fordtransit.org/ (although the forum seems to be down at the moment)

If diagnostic tools won't communicate, it might be worth checking all the earth connections to vehicle body. Starter motor might be working ok as probably got its own earth connection. Do all the other warning lights work ok

If you do need the engine code it can be found on a data plate inside the passenger door (by the door latch)

Sorry for delay in replying John. Tail lights were not working at all, although front sidelights were ok. I found another fuse box behind a panel on the dash at the side of the glovebox with many more fuses, replaced blown fuse and all ok I also found another fusebox on the chassis by the...

I'm trying to sort out some problems with rear lights on above vehicle, but can't find any fuses listed for rear/tail lights does anyone know if there are any more fuses other than the ones in the glovebox. I've not got a handbook (can't see any fuses listed for headlights either) Not having...

If i'm changing one because its worn out i just use a crowbar and force the ball joint apart and then just use mole grips on the "ball" part and undo the nut as normal. With things like this where there is a lot of exposed (rusty) thread it helps to wirebrush the thread clean and use plenty of...

You wouldn't get 6.35 hours to change clutch and flywheel, you would get 3.25 hours, the clutch has to be removed to replace the flywheel, so you would just get the flywheel replacement time (i.e. clutch replacement 3.10 + 0.15 to unbolt the flywheel = 3.25)

Would 20+ years of self employment be a disadvantage if applying for a full time job. Would you be classed as to set in your ways, no traceable history etc etc I suppose it may depend on the job, if it involves working alone or part of a team etc. Anyone been in this position

Just wondering why you think this is the case

I think you've confused them with your sizes, most places around here still refer to plasterboard as 8x4 or 6x3 (ft) or 2.4x1.2 if your metric, maybe they thought you wanted 24 by 12 ft lol