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So what should this red anti-freeze be diluted with then ??

Just out of interest, what sort of vehicle do you intend to use the pit for, if its for modern front wheel drive cars, you might find a pit is of limited use, and might not be worth the expense of building.

Thanks for the replies, I had read 106 metres as mentioned by eric above, but was also told "as many sockets as you like within 100 square metres floor area"

Does the old rule of maximum size of 100 square metres floor area still apply, or is it now determined by maximum length of cable. Also does anyone number the conductors in the c u (in a similar way to commercial boards)

Check the pipe from servo to pump, it may have a small pipe branching off it, sometimes used to operate heater controls or whatever, you may have a leak there. Also while doing the test described above, holding the pedal start the engine and then increase the revs, see if the pedal moves at...

Thanks guys, It is a long established company was run by the father now the son, don't know why he's not installing. Is fitting a replacement boiler notifiable through building regs then ? (this is part of an extension so is already going through building control.)

Are there different levels of gas safe registration, i've just phoned a registered gas safe engineer (we've used him before for repairs,) I wanted a price to install a new gas boiler (conversion from oil) he says he's not registered for installing, only repairs and servicing, just seems a bit...

Sounds a good idea, but i would imagine it would be a nightmare regarding health and safety and insurance etc

I think i'd check the codes again most codes normally read P0--- not P1--- but as gregers said looks like you may have a faulty tps (ignore the code about barometric pressure sensor) if the codes are what i think they are

Sounds like a wheel bearing problem to me, would also explain the spongy brakes

I think the first thing that needs changing is your mechanic, the door needs stripping to investigate, could be something quite simple, and maybe a wiring problem for the window

I'm still struggling with this has anyone else got any suggestions please I have a small area of original concrete floor which has old style quarry tiles about 20mm thick, i don't have enough of the old tiles so will have to use the new "equivalent" which are only 8mm thick this is leaving me...

I've recently extended my kitchen into what was a downstairs bathroom with very old quarry tiles, these tiles have been taken up and new concrete base put in. How long before i can tile on the new concrete floor approx 100mm thick (will be using pilkington 150 x 150 "quarry" tiles) Also in...

I would hope not. Why would you want to drive a vehicle with dodgy steering. Tell us more about the vehicle, make, model etc and the "steering problems"

Thanks again noseall was wondering about cavity batts, need to keep it away from cables in places though

Thanks noseall so looks like we are stuck with the 100mm rockwool, any tips on how to fix it between joists, floor is already down

So if the authority choose to use a sub-contract electrician what testing is done is a PIR acceptable, to satisfy Part P requirements

As part of an ongoing extension we are required to put in 100mm (i think) rockwool type insulation in the new ceiling void between floors If we were to use a solid type insulation (kingspan) how does this compare would 50 mm equal the 100mm rockwool (would leave more space for pipes and cables)

Just wondering how local authorities up and down the country are dealing with anyone who wants to do their own electrical work notified through building control, Do they use their own staff or do they use electrical contractors, what inspection and testing is carried out using this route