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By the way, do all the cleaning bits first and try the burner then before you go to the extent of disconnecting fuel pipes. I often find dirty blast tubes that cause similar problems. ( Is there a high level of dust where the burner is hosued?)

Only put a flue gas analyser sensor into the flue when you have got the thing burning well. As you will not have a "Smoke Pump" to make sure that you aren't going to ruin the analyser with soot. get the thing running and, after noting the air setting, open the air inlet up some more. Insert the...

If the motor, minus the fuel pump, spins up to normal speed then the capacitor is OK. It sounds like the fuel pump is partially siezed. Burnerman. It seems Riello had a manufacturing problem a year or so ago. New pumps would sieze after a short running period, sometimes as quick as 10...

Without a fuel pressure gauge and a Flue Gas Analyser you are at a disadvantage. However you have checked that the Photo-cell is clean but you can also connect a multi-meter to it and then shine a light into the cell checking that the resistance varies with the amount of light. No light =...

It is not clear exactly what the symptoms were and now are. Was the motor running (and fan / fuel pump) all turning OK before you took the fuel pump off and now when you put the fuel pump back on it does not turn? If so then maybe the drive shaft to the fuel pump isn't located properly or it...

Do what oilhead says in his last post and if, when you put the screwdriver into the pump centre and the impellor isn't turning give it a spin with the screwdriver. If it starts to run, great. Switch it off and back on again. If it runs then forget it, if it only runs after you turn it with the...

Let me throw this in. Looking at my marked up copy of the wiring diagram for the Heatslave (page 22 of the manual) there are 4 possible supplies to the circulating pump. 1. If both the Boiler Termostat and the Central Heating Control Thermostat (both in the boiler)go to "high temp" then a...

Presumably these motors are all of the same type doing the same job? As bhm said there can be differences in the phases that a straight forward (dc) resistance reading will not show up. The impedance (ac resistance if you will) of each winding depends on many things and the way the windings...

It seems that it is as lcgs says, provided that once the boiler stat is set above 80 Deg then everything works normally. i.e. hot water and heating work OK. These kind of thermostats are not that accurate when first manufactured and go even further out of calibration with age. Presumaby the...

Sounds to me that this is the way that your Hot water / Central Heating controls system is wired. i.e. Hot water selection has to be on to fire the boiler and the central heating selection just diverts some hot water to the rads, either with just an additional pump or via a valve. Has it always...

You are correct Agile! I have now looked at where onlyfit lives....Aberdeen....lovely soft water. What type of water does the OP have?

I thought that the worst build up of scale was in the "hot water" path through the heat plate exchanger. i.e. where fresh cold water is heated to go to the hot taps. This is always fresh water and will always carry more minerals ready to deposit when it is heated, so flushing, if it works, will...

Sorry, don't bother with The Dragon's Den. People in the sticks have been using generators for standby (and main!) power supplies for donkeys years. The use of batteries, charged by either a mains battery charger or lately solar power and then changed back into ac by a sine wave inverter...

It's no good fitting new fuses and thinking that you then have a good fuse fitted (as Coljack said). You may have a nice collection of duff fuses or the new fuse that you fit may instantly blow. You need a multimeter, a lamp and battery or even a known serviceable table lamp to use as a fuse...

You really need a multimeter to test for continuity of the cables. Make sure that you switch the mains OFF first! If you do not have a multi-meter then a "lamp and battery" will do. Check each individual conductor in turn. From what you say the cable between the FCU and light is suspect. If...

Thanks slapper but I have tried to break the fault down into a) the valve or b) the actuator, with the first thing to look at in the actuator being.... "If the fault is in the actuator it could be stiff and need lubricating, as seco said," This is the way that I fault diagnose zone valve...

Don't be so quick DIY. The "Valve" consists of an electrical actuator and a mechanical valve. Isolate the electrical mains and remove the electrical actuator. Note the position of the valve stem. Using a pair of pliers check that the valve is free by turning the stem GENTLY. it does not...

Waterworks, Sorry, as I was writing my suggestion I got a call out to a, not disimilar problem to yours and got interrupted. I forgot to tell you that once you had the correct air pressure in the expansion vessel, as shown on your tyre pressure gauge, and you had reconnected everything, you...

I'm not a plumber but I do service oil boilers. Is your filling loop turned on? I think that it is the only place that your system can fill from. It is normally a flexible pipe with a valve at each end, the one on the boiler end being an NRV. They should both be off. (and really the loop should...

Peter, BS7671:2008 ("The IEE Regs") Part 6, details which inspection and tests are done, how often, in what sequence and what the results must comply with. This is complemented by Guidance Note 3, "Inspection & Testing," which is part of the suite of manuals that go with "The IEE Regs"...