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Boiler overheats, starts sparking, eventually explodes, house burns down, next door catches fires, whole town soon follows, contributes to global warming, polar bears drown, end of life as we know it. P.S. And that is why plumbers charge so much - they are single handedly saving the world

Can't fault any of this. You seem very well clued up on central heating, freezing exterior pipework and their interconnectedness :wink:

So, would that 3PV be a blending thing then? Are those white doodahs powerheads? if so, presumably a number of them would be controlled by a single stat - there is an upstairs and downstairs one. If that is the case, I can just quote for two new programmable stats, a new pump and replacement...

Yes, it does look rubbish doesn't it.

It sounds like you have an electrically heated cylinder and the bottom heater has packed up, leaving you with only a little heat from the top heater.

Thanks for the help so far. Hopefully i have uploaded the photos below. The layout of the boiler from left to right is:- GAS DHW DCW FLOW RETURN PRESSURE-RELIEF If this looks blindingly obvious to anyone, please shout out! Ta

Doesn't seem to be a blending pump. I've asked the customer to take some photos, I'll post them up as soon as I get them.

Just spoken to WB and the 42CDi puts out 240V so problem solved - thanks for your help lcgs - I was making it more complicated than it actually was!

Aha, that would work (and make more sense) if the secondary pump was serving both zones and would also overcome the problem of firing if ANY zone valve opened - this is assuming that the boiler outputs 240V to grey or whatever colour isn't the orange one.

First of all, I know nothing about UFH, never fitted, modified, repaired or specified it. I now need to quote for a combination boiler replacement and there are a few things that do not seem right about the existing setup and I need a bit of advice. Currently there is a Worcester Bosch 350...

Yeah, but you added some bits I missed (lever valves etc)

Sorry but I found that incredibly hard to read, but from what I understood:- (1) Drain the cold cistern, drain the HWC, drain the heating. Do not try and 'save' any water in the rads - this is an ideal opportunity to clean the system. Be aware that yo may need to manually operate your...

Assuming you are fully pumped then a cheap way of doing this would be to install an RF thermostat - programmable or not - and during the day manually shut down all other rads and move the RF stat into the delicate flower room and let it control this single room. When you get home, put the...

Why on earth would it damage the boiler? it's more likely to do absolutely nothing and make no difference to your leak.

And once that has been done, bung some leak sealer in. It might work and it might not, but it's a cheaper first option than replacing radiators, valves and getting a specialist in to 'pass' the boiler.