Replacement combi for UFH installation help needed LONG POST

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First of all, I know nothing about UFH, never fitted, modified, repaired or specified it. I now need to quote for a combination boiler replacement and there are a few things that do not seem right about the existing setup and I need a bit of advice.

Currently there is a Worcester Bosch 350 combi that is running two UFH zones, each regulated by their own room stat but switched by the built-in programmer. The flow is hooked up to a 3-port valve with each port serving a manifold. One zone has an additional 15/50 pump. I do not recognise the 3PV, all I can say is that it has a large white plastic cover on it. The boiler has a direct rear flue and as far as I am aware, no new WB can be flued like this.

This is an ‘architect designed house’ i.e. testament to some knobends vanity and amongst its features is some tin cladding in a tear-drop shape that the flue exits from – not the sort of stuff that a few bricks and some sand and cement can be used on.

The lady of the house likes WB boilers and wants another one. I do have some room below the boiler to play around with, possibly 400mm or so. So, depending on the dimensions I may be able to drop the new boiler, reuse the hole and still have enough clearance underneath – I plan to check with WB technical later on.

So, onto my problems, hopefully someone can clear these up for me:-

Why is a secondary pump necessary? The house is not overly large. There are two manifolds each consisting of 4 loops.

I plan to specify two programmable stats for the 2 zones.

At the moment, the favoured boiler is the WB 42CDI. This I know will require volt-free switching so I cannot see how the 3PV is useful to me. I have no idea if the old boiler allowed 240V switching, but the new one certainly doesn’t. So, I would replace the 3PV with 2 zone valves which is fine, however if a secondary pump is required then how on earth am I supposed to fire this after its zone valve has opened? I need the volt-free switching from either valve to fire the boiler. All I can think of is to have the pump before the valve and having an auto bypass fitted and use the output from the room stat – but this doesn’t seem like an appropriate solution. What would be nice would be to have a relay switching 240V in response to whatever voltage the boiler is putting out and thus giving me the ability to use one of the zone valves to fire the pump, but I don’t know where to source something like this.

Anyway, hopefully this is a common problem and there is someone here able to point me in the right direction.

Oh, and finally I am going to offer the GW CX35 as an alternative boiler simply because it can have a direct rear flue – anyone know of any other decent alternatives?

TIA
Mike
 
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Second pump on the underfloor is because loops are too large for in built pump to cope with,one manufacturers normal setup would have seen 2 port valve prior to each manifold and then a dlending setup with pump on the manifold connection.

To fire the second pump when valve opens-link pump live to the orange of the 2 port.

If the in built pump of the new boiler is sufficient you might not actually need the 15/50.

lee
 
Second pump on the underfloor is because loops are too large for in built pump to cope with,one manufacturers normal setup would have seen 2 port valve prior to each manifold and then a dlending setup with pump on the manifold connection.

To fire the second pump when valve opens-link pump live to the orange of the 2 port.

If the in built pump of the new boiler is sufficient you might not actually need the 15/50.

lee

Aha, that would work (and make more sense) if the secondary pump was serving both zones and would also overcome the problem of firing if ANY zone valve opened - this is assuming that the boiler outputs 240V to grey or whatever colour isn't the orange one.
 
Just spoken to WB and the 42CDi puts out 240V so problem solved - thanks for your help lcgs - I was making it more complicated than it actually was!
 
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Is there any underfloor drawings on site, should have been supplied as part of the commision which should include the wiring diagrams for how its connected(normal ssue when installed by manufacturer or approved installer)

Is the 15/50 being used as a blending pump or as a shunt.

Max loop length should be around 100m per loop which i'm presuming it isnt with the addition of a shunt pump.
 
Doesn't seem to be a blending pump. I've asked the customer to take some photos, I'll post them up as soon as I get them.
 
Depending on where the 350 is you may be able to install a Highflow 400 or 550 with a rear flue. It is unlikely you will get a 42CDi and turret within the 350 outline +400mm.

A Vaillant 837 is a shorter boiler body, if you can convince her.

With respect to the underfloor heating, there must be some form of thermostatic control on that already. It is relatively simple to wire the two 2 port valves for each zone off the individual pump circulators for each manifold, (as a boiler call for heat) and then in turn use their pin switches for the boiler call (grey and orange).
 
I see you considered the gw flexicom 35cx, these are good boilers and have the direct rear flue you require and can operate ch on 24v or 240v. If the whole house is underfloor heating you can limit the flow temp on these using d71 to say 50 deg c making it run in condensing mode pernamently when on heating. . . . . . .

The Vaillant 837 is a better boiler though.
 
Eliteheat eh???!!! Outofyourdepthheat I'd say!!

Anyway, why are you not just going to fit a Honeywell 'U' plan as a control system??
 
Ignoring the UFH problem for a moment. I swapped my 350 for a 40Cdi a couple of years back. To retain the boiler in the same position I had to raise the flue hole slightly. In typical working on own house mode I have never repainted the wall where I patched up the flue hole. This enabled me to discover that the new flue sits 85mm above the base of the old hole. If you've got 400 to play with under the boiler there shouldn't be a problem.

I'd be very cautious on this one as you will get the blame if it all goes pear shaped with the UFH. I assume the old boiler is et on minimum to provide the low temps required for the UFH as there are no blending valves.

Mike
 
If theres no blender then i'd be surprised if the manifold has actually got the high limit stat attatched so boiler temp pobably wont matter just find the loops get very warm :eek:
 
I think I'd run a mile looking at the state of that pipework and wiring. If something goes wrong you'ld struggle like hell to work out what's going on.

Mike
 

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