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Hi Armo, yes the vertical one is closed. Always has been. The horizontal one was only half open and I fully opened it, assuming it needed to be. :? Would someone be kind enough to link to what the products are that I need? And are they ok being in the same place as the old ones...

Well my thought was the pump. But why would the boiler fire up when it's not needed? :? I think I do have a bypass valve. Is it the horizontal one?

Sorry for another thread. :oops: Long story short, my boiler constantly stops and starts when I request heating and/or hot water. On a couple of occasions it's cut out with an overheating error code. Previously was a solid blockage in the de-aerator. Today I drained down the system...

Is the rinse aid topped up?

Yeah definitely a 3 port then. Potterton Suprima 50. Wilo 50 Gold Pump. Open vented (F&E in the loft). Hot water tank in airing cupboard. Boiler in kitchen. Is there anything else I've missed?

It is running, I'm just not sure how effectively. I undid the screw at the front and when putting a screwdriver in I could feel it turning. I am wondering whether the pump not functioning properly is causing my boiler to keep turning on and off.

How would I tell? :oops: So the lever will always be in the same position regardless of whether I want water, heating or both? Sorry, can you explain how it works for draining/filling? Thanks

Thanks Terry. I never touched the vertical one, that is still shut. It was the horizontal one that was half open but now fully. I should leave everything as it is? Or put the horizontal on the return back to half open?

I'm having problems with my boiler continuously switching on and off every few minutes when putting the hot water or heating on. While 'investigating this, I'm not sure if my diverter valve is working properly. I have a Honeywell one that looks very much like this...

Thanks for the replies. I'm confused now though as one says it should be open, the other says partially open. :?

I wouldn't have installed the sockets from scratch because I wouldn't know how to. I do know spurring once off a socket on the ring main is acceptable and safe, hence why I did it.

Sorry, yes, two cables. Can you tell I'm a DIY'er? lol Thanks for the replies guys. I should have asked before I'd changed it. :oops: But at least I've learnt for next time. :)

I've just swapped over some sockets and the wiring on one had me wondering whether it was correct. Two sockets, one either side of a stud wall, a foot apart or so. The two wires coming up from the ring main. One wire in to one socket, the other wire in to the other socket, and a seperate...

I hope it's clear from the pics. I can take more if not. I have an isolation valve that is closed, and I'm not entirely sure why! It's the vertical one in the middle of the picture. I also have a horizontal one towards the bottom of the picture that was only half open. I've fully opened it...

Thanks Groovejet Presumably a header tank is the small F&E one? In that case I only have one, then the big cold water tank. System doesn't sound noisey at all as far as I can tell. Pipes don't clunk or anything like that. When I first drained the system in February it came out as black...

Very quickly, the boiler keeps cutting out and restarting. Heating does it too but to a lesser extent and and all rads get piping hot. Hot water is another story. It cuts out within less than a minute of coming on. It's all here basically...

Well the motor is spinning. In a way that's not good as I have no idea what the problem is now. lol