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Here are the photos of what I’m working with and the space I have etc.

Whilst standing at the sink brushing my teeth last night, the flexible connector for the hot water decided it was time to burst. I quick isolated the supply using a flat screwdriver on the hose and managed to dry up all the water. Fortunately it's not caused any damage and even more fortunately...

Thanks for that, I see what you mean. I’ve just worked out that the wall I’m going to be over boarding is dot and dabbed to the block work. How would you suggest I overboard it? The original plasterboard is well attached to the block work. I’m over boarding it as there as cut out and whole in...

If I’m plasterboarding a wall with internal angles but not doing the joining walls so I won’t be able to apply skrim tape. How would you deal with this and stop it cracking etc? Are there tricks or techniques? Thanks.

I have had a whole load of cupboards installed under my stairs. Could you advise me on the best way to paint them? The have been primed using a spray primer but I’m tempted you give the cupboard fronts a good rub down before painting. Thanks for any help/advice you can give.

So, I've had a new handle arrive and it's exactly the same apart from the "lug" that goes into the door itself. Shall I just go ahead and make that part on the door wider? Any tips or suggestions? It looks like it's 10mm according to the diagram that the manufacturer provides. See attached as...

Yeah I agree. They look and feel pretty good quality handles so I think it’s best to stick with them. My letter plate and door knocker needs replacing too. Any suggestions for something of solar quality?

Thanks for the coving suggestion but not keen on it in the kitchen and especially where it goes up to a mono pitch ceiling with velux windows. Thanks though

Yeah that’s the one. After a measure it’s the 240mm one I’ve got. Do you think it’s time for a new handle or will the spring cassette be available to replace? Thanks

Just today my front door latch won’t spring back out after opening. Meaning, I unlock my door, open it and the handle stays down until you encourage it back. I’ve used WD40, taken the handle off and checked it and moved it back and forward to try to free it but this hasn’t worked. Any ideas as...

Yeah - won’t work for the style and look we want.

Yeah I think that’s my only concern. I’m out of practice and some of the ceilings are quite large. I’ll be starting with smaller ones to get going again but wondering what technique to use with the larger ones. I can’t afford another several thousand pounds to get it all redone and potentially...

Yeah I think you’re right. Better fully fix by reminding it rather than waste time trying to sand the whole ceiling. Do you still recommend... 1:3 PVA 13” Pre worn Marshall town trowel 2 Coat multifinish Polish off with water and the trowel at the end of the job The reason I ask is because...

Thanks Ken. Good suggestion but I’m looking to achieve a freshly plastered and emulsions looks rather than add an extra layer or texture to the surface. Thanks for the idea though

Coving won’t work on my kitchen sadly. I know that you mean about caulk. Thanks for the tip.

Cool, thanks. Interesting product. Anyone else been in this situation or got any pearls of wisdom?

Is there a way to fix this ceiling where you can see the trowel marks that the plasterers have left or is it easier to PVA and skim again? Photo attached. Thanks.

After plasterers have finished I’ve got a few places where they skimmed one surface and not the adjacent (so no skrim tape used) so have get some cracks formed where the skrim tape should go. Other than the obvious decorators caulk, is there something that will seal this gap with some strength...

Will these go into an RSJ? The steel is very thick and tough so I can’t see these sinking into it.

Great tips, thanks. Only problem is that I’m needing to fit the blind to the underside of the RSJ.