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He won’t provide me with the certificates you’ve mentioned and is asking for payment for the work carried out? What do I do now?

He’s resent me the invoice so I guess that means... pay up. Interestingly he’s listed on the invoice “connect final circuits to CU”. Does this suggest that this task would produce certificates etc? Thanks.

Not really sure what to do now. He’s not produced certificates covering the work or a certificate of conformity from NAPIT for the new circuits. I don’t feel right not paying the invoice. Any suggestions please?

I've had a NAPIT registered electrician come and do the following work in stages.... 1. Add to an existing ring 2. Add in 2 additional lights with switches 3. Feed a new supply to a hob back to the consumer unit 4. Feed two oven supplies back to the consumer unit 5. Feed an elect UFH supply...

Cool, thanks for your help with this. Do these images help? I’ve also included the contrasting colour too which “seems” better quality.

Thanks. So the doors I have are MFC with a white PVC edging as opposed to wrapped. They just feel look and feel on the check side if I'm honest. It's very difficult to know what I paid as the price was lumped in with the whole cost of the kitchen. As far as I'm aware, the kitchen company...

crank39 - thanks for your help with this. Yes, this is possibly the case as I can't find any obvious gaps or air moving other than the draft you have describe. Is it a very common process that takes place making people think they have drafty windows when in fact it's just convection? If it is...

Hi, Just wondered if anyone could advise me on this or has good in depth experience of Egger boards for kitchen door fronts? I've had a new kitchen fitted and spent a lot of money in order to get a good looking and quality kitchen. It's a full handle less kitchen. The bit that I'm...

Yes, they aren't perished but I wonder if they have flattened/crushed over the period of time. I can't notice any major draft from them but there's a definite coldness coming from them. IS this expected or do you think that something can be done to reduce this? I can't slide paper into the...

The double glazing in my house is around 8 years old and fitted by the previous owners. I find the windows noisey (from passing cars) and slightly draughty. Is this normal or there anything I can do to improve the problem. The windows are synseal I think. Thanks for any help and advice on this.

Thanks. You’d be expecting to get higher than 2lpm on the flow when just one loop is open though wouldn’t you? I can’t work out what the issue is tbh. Just disappointed that it’s like this and it’s cold.

They sold me a: Wilo Yonos PARA RS25/1-6-RKA Is that correct? How does it compare to a grundfos? I’m getting a 10c drop from the mixed temp and return temp and also never getting a flow rate higher than 2lt/m

Perfect, thanks. Yes all I can see are the 15-50/60 models on the shelves. I’m guessing that the 25-40/60 is more powerful and worth the extra money? Thanks.

Yeah that’s the cabinet. Hmmmm... I’ll nip out to a local shop and give it a try then. Shut off the flow and return, close the flows on each loop and remove the actuators yeah? Once installed, you’d open the flow and open the bottom drain off to push any remaining air out of the manifold yeah...

As Jay said, there’s no auto air vent that I can see or know of I’m afraid. I don’t get anywhere near 4lpm on any of the loops even when just one loop is open and calling for heat.

Thanks, really helpful and good advice. I’m pretty sure all air is out because the system is running lonely a quiet now and I can’t hear any air noise. When I first setup the system there was a fair amount of air noise so I stopped and started from scratch by purging the air out of every loop...

Thanks, yes I agree. Lifting the expensive floor isn’t going to happen due to budget. It’s only just been fitted and it’s the flooring we want. I’ve raised the floor probe cut off and it’s better tonight but I’m still interested why the flow doesn’t go higher than 2 (even just running two loops...

Ok, one interesting thing that I’ve noticed. I’ve opened up all the flow valves and when just one thermostat (two loops/valves) is calling for heat, it only achieves a 2 flow rate and not the 3 like you mentioned. This is with the wilo pump on full (6). Photo attached. I’ve increased the mixed...

You agree that the 65c is a good output temperature from the boiler? You’d also leave it at 40c for the mixed temperature seeing as it’s not activating the floor probe at 27c? I have a horrible feeling that when I only run it with the one stat calling for heat it still doesn’t have a difference...

Cool, thanks. So the mixer valve is closed as tight as possible and gives me 40c. Would you suggest taking the boiler down in temperature as it’s current set to 65c? When the flow is mixed to 40c the floor probe didn’t hit 27c. If I turn the mix up slightly the probe limit does kick in. So I...