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Thanks - can you help with this though. If i want to tile the wall (and will stop just above the dpc so as not to bridge it - 5mm above ok?) can i then install a tile 'skirting board' ? I could attach it to the bricks below the dpc with s&c then tile adhesive - ensuring i leave a gap under the...

I think i will do the same - batten on the wall attached to the bricks - then render down to it then fix the skirting to the battens. Means the s&c will be easiest at 20mm? or whatever thickness roofing battens are?! How much gap should i leave though? Would i attach the the batten to be...

Next question. This is for a garage - not a conversion just making it better. At the bottom of the wall there are two courses of brick (sloping up towards the back to just over a course), then DPC then blocks above. I want to render as close to the floor as possible, so i dont have a gap...

I'm not convinced it can, but i could be wrong. Although, what would be the benefit over sand/cement?

Thanks. Honestly, i'm using sand cement as i cannot get hold of any hardwall round here, and want it to be a durable finish - not dot and dab. Cant use bonding as its on celcon blocks. Would 2x 8mm coats be ok - thats what i think they did originally here, as the backing coat is the same...

Hi, just a quick question. I have bare block walls that i am going to float and set. No doorframes or other to work off like i normally have so going to do box screed in sections. What is the thickness supposed to be for each coat, 10mm each, so total of 20mm then 3mm multi finish? Is that...

Hi all, doing the stairwell wall - Celcon blocks- with sand and cement. I have done some floating before , mostly smaller walls though, and I have a few questions. I understand that the maximum thickness i should do each coat is 11mm - but door casings etc mean i will be looking closer to 20mm...

I have a few more questions if possible? If i do one coat at 8-10mm then the next at 8-10mm will that be ok? How long between coats - can i do one in the morning, one in the afternoon? Or, if i don't get round to it, one coat one day, and the top the next day - is better to leave less or more...

Thanks for that. I think the only bit that I'll struggle with is getting the backing flat - not enough room to get a featheredge in since its only patching. I can rule off the old wall for the top coat though, so hopefully that will make it flat.

Hi, I need to patch in some largeish areas on celcon blocks. The old browning had come loose in places, so has been removed back to the blocks. I cannot get hardwall here, and it has been said that bonding cant be used, so I'm doing it in sand and cement. I had hoped to clarify a few things...

Another quick question, once i've screwed the board to the wall, so its firm. Would it be a problem to squeeze some mortar down the back of the board? Reason being is the top of the wall will be sand and cement rendered, so it would be nice to have the render go down the back a bit as well, so...

Great thanks - although it will make it a bit more tricky to set the board in, as the lead will push the board out towards the front of the wall. Thanks

Thanks for that, makes sense about the foam pushing the board out, i hadn't considered that. So, what about the lead, should it be folded up, or down? Just been up to check, its proably more like 10mm at the most, and it does reduce to probably 5mm in places - it varies all over the place too-...

Hi, I have a block wall (thermalite) upstairs, the bottom half is plasterboard and the top is float and set, then the whole wall is skimmed. Not sure why they did it this way, its in a dormer - the bottom half backs on to the downstairs loft, and the top backs onto the outside. I am in the...

Excellent, thanks for the info and advice.

Yeah, i get all the extra stuff... I suppose my question could be worded better - Will the TRV valve screw into the radiator directly once i remove the tail extenders? Thanks, and i'm sorry if this is really obvious, i just dont want to be in a position of having the radiator off then...