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You generally go from the CU to the void under the 1st floor floor boards, then down to the 1st socket, back up again and along then down to the 2nd socket and so on for ground floor sockets. You do similarly for bedroom sockets only go up the wall.

Don't know anything about Pactrol timers, but don't see why not.

Who's doing the work, you or an electrician?

Yes you can protect it using a 32A MCB. Remember fitting a shower falls under Part P.

As you will come off a 13A FCU in your garage for your socket, it can't then go above 13A. You can also use a 3A FCU to supply your light(s).

They say a quick way for testing R1 + R2 also ELI (from what they say).

Option A - and be prepared to dig up lawn :shock: !

Yes, otherwise every time you do a minor alteration to a circuit you would have to do a CU upgrade, which is not very practicable if you think about it.

To keep the costs down I would suggest let the electrician purchase what he needs. He has more experience of what is best and what is more suitable. He will be able to purchase it cheaper than you anyway.

That should be ok, as long as it's clear there are live cables inside and nobody's likely to stick a nail in the box.

Where is this wall, is this an internal wall or is it outside? Is it 50cm wide (1ft 8in) or do you mean 50mm (2in)? "Can I run the cable along the edge of this boxed out section" Do you mean to run it inside the box or outsde? "is it treated as a new wall" Dunno can't see it. Safe...

After 7 years could well be the dimmer. Try swapping it over with another or replacing it.

(1) Correct it must be RCD protected. (2) As long as it is RCD protected you can use capping; most will still use plastic capping, as it doesn't have to be earthed. (3) Steel conduit can be used because it has mechanical protection and therefore doesn't have to be RCD protected. But...

It is also quite common on the continent and also in Oz :)

Hope you're not using 16mm boxes- it'll be a bit of a squeeze with the neutrals in a block.

The oven manufacturers usually recommend the appropriate cable to use. If not try something like this

You will no doubt have to have a PIR done on your wiring, which will then highlight the problem and your prospective buyers will undoubtedly demand you put it right before buying the property. That is assuming it hasn't deteriorated beforehand causing a fire which your insurers won't...

Yes, most manufacurers supplying 17th edition boards will now only supply 30mA RCDs.

The short answer is no. You need all the cable replacing, which means renewing the cable from the CU to the first socket if that is the last of the remaining old cable. I would have thought you would have discussed this with your electrician with a view to him doing it as he is going to be...

Thanks for all your replies, I'll probably go with the RS ones, as I don't really need the pilot cable anyway.