Search results

A hollow screw extractor will remove less timber than a plug cutter http://www.rutlands.co.uk/hand-tools/screwdrivers/screw-extractors/DKWSE1/screw-extractors J

16" cts as that suited the ply roof, each rafter is directly over a stud. J

Pattern 20 are rebated for external use and sold as a pair, for internal you don't usually bother with rebated so use two pat 10s. J

Bit late but only went to back to that job today. This replaced an old open sided car port, the brickwork was built off the existing conc slab, DPC, 4x2 studwork, Metal strapping for diagonal bracing, tyvek and oak weatehr boarding. ] 6Mx3m so same size as yours, fixing to the...

Or a couple of Ikea wooden worktops. J

Just had 9 sheets of Medite MR MDF delivered in various thicknesses, dividing the total weight by total thickness gives 2.34kg/mm thickness so about 42kg for an 18mm8x4. None of your lightweight fluffy stuff for me :wink: J

I really would not put the posts into the concrete, even with treated timber they will rot out in 10-12yrs. Your joinery does not look ideal, the head plates are fixed to teh sides of the posts so all load is through the fixings, far better to put the plate on top of the posts so loads are...

No better to stick on a strip with the staves running in the same direction like you propose than doing a 70mm return with the grain at right angles to the main worktop. J

Provided the two mating edges are good then there should not be a problem, a few biscuits would help but not essential if the small return is supported by a cabinet. For short returns like this its better to do as you are than joining a 70mm bit cut off the end of the run. I assume its in a...

A sharp one will do it no problem. J

Egger will send you samples, just look at their colour charts on line and order the samples. The only problem may be if its not a common colour which would mean you need to buy a full pack of boards :( http://zoom.egger.com/uk-eng/zoom-dekore-dekorsuche_ENG_HTML.php You may not get an...

I tend to use a waterbased floor lacquer, hard wearing and easy to apply, 3 coats with a light rub down between each works OK. This is what I use at the moment https://vault2.secured-url.com/frenchpolishes/acatalog/Floor_Coatings.html J

Get one of the little magnetic angle gauges, you stand it on the table and set to zero, then stick it on the blade and wind until it reads what you want then lock the saw in position. They work really well http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/wixey-digital-angle-gauge-with-magnetic-base.html

Or buy a timber worktop and chop 225mm off the side J

Actually what you are asking for is a "half bat" a snap header is a brick that has been cut in half. Yes they are made but unless you are going to be buying a lot the cost many be too high so cutting could be the better option. J

Cheap shed bought MDF can be very soft, I always use the MR (Moisture resistant) MDF by either Medite or Caber its far better for the extra couple of quid. Even standard MDF from Medite called "premier" is miles softer than their MR. J

Drill the wall and back of teh shelf and then resin bond steel rods into the holes, those brackets are not that sturdy, have a look at the last 3 pics on this page http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Clareville%20rd/#!cpZZ2QQtppZZ20 J

Not my cup of tea but try these http://www.jsm-joinery.co.uk/gallery.html J

JSM Joinery in south london will machine any profle you want, very unlikely anyone will have it as a stock item. http://www.jsm-joinery.co.uk/ J

There is no face frame they are lay-on doors/draws and it won't make any difference if there was anyway, its the length of the top that is the problem, its been pushed in and sprung the freezer carcase in. No easy way of doing it with the top in place, really needs to come out and be planed...