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and Fiddies and Granwax and Junkers and Rustins etc etc etc Still have a Ronseal trade HWO but I don't think they make that any more.

Not a huge difference as far as I can tell. The Bona dries slightly quicker than the Osmo, (4 hours v's 8 hour claims) but the Osmo seems slightly thicker. They both smell and look similar so I suppose it comes down to the cost or availability. Cheers TT

Hi For filling the gaps in wood block you could use Lecol 7500 which is solvent based or Bona Mix &Fill which is waterbased. The Bona one is fine for gaps up to 2mm the Lecol will go up to around 5mm gaps. My only other thought is your lacquer. Although the Sadolin PV67 is a strong...

There is also the appearance, some will prefer the look of lacquer v's HWO or the other way around. I have Oak in my house, front done with lacquer, the back with Hardwax Oil. I chose HWO specifically for the back room because I have converted the room to an office / dining room and there is...

Any chance you could abrade the concrete. This would give it some texture, or relay the concrete with a coarse grit in it. Alternatively if you have space, how about just laying some textured paving stones over the concrete.

Hi Huey The best "value" lacquer you can buy is probably the longest lasting and not the cheapest. When you take the cost of the whole job, (machine hire, abrasives, time out of the room, effort etc,) it seems strange to go and save £30 or £40 buying a lower durability "Own Brand" product...

MS Polymers (Part of the Silane group of adhesives) have moisture proofing properties but cannot be used as DPM's. You would need to use a resin based DPM first, like he one quoted by Mattysupra. Silane's cannot be used on top of bitumen based products so don't use a Wickes DPM and a Silane...

OK Not one I have used http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/cementone/Flexible-Damp-Proofer-and-Waterproofer/156 Does look like it would dry to the touch and not remain tacky but I would recommend a trial if you want to be sure. Anyone else?

Do you have the name of the product you are using? We can then see if anyone has experience of it on the forum.

My buffer gives me plenty of exercise, particularly when the pad is slightly off centre :lol:

Another question SteveUK Is the floor in need of maintenance product or is the floor just in need of a thorough clean? Quality mops and cleaners leave no residue on the floor unlike some other cleaners...

Another option for lacquered foors http://www.ambiencehardwoodflooring.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=2546

Is it a lacquer finish or oiled?

Most modern waterbased lacquer (varnish) are flexible and mircoporus (breathable). They have the same chance of holding back wood expansion as I do of competing in the 2012 Olympics. Old solvent lacquers were less breathable and less flexible. but had a tendency to crack or craze after a period...

Except to be precise Sika do not do T54 in a sausage or tube. They have a similar product called T52FC or T2 in a sausage, even T2 in a 310cc cartridge but not T54 The other point is that many solvent and Silaine adhesives do not work well with "Tar" (Probably a bitumen residue) so you need...

This is in the flooring section! My only thought is "Insurance claim"

Simple answer: Moisture Either moisture coming up from the sub floor, or a leak from somewhere. If that is a big fridge freezer sitting on it, do you have leak from the back of it, or is there a blockage in the condenser area? Find where the moisture is coming from and we can offer some...

Taking the questions in order. a) There are adhesives that bond to vinyl, and there are levelling compound that will go over. In both cases the floor will need to be clean and degreased. For an adhesive look at something like Sika T54...

Hi There In theory yes you can just clean, key and overcoat a lacquered floor. First you need to find out if the floor finish is compatible with extra coats. If you have used lots of polish over the years, or you have an Aluminium Oxide or Ceramic pre-finish, water based products will have...

Agreed. This would be the better option if possible. If the wood shrinks back when the central heating is turned on, you could be left with edges showing from under the skirting. TT