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There is another thread about the [electrician] here: http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/main-power-switch-tripping.461987/ It appears he claimed to be a member of some schemes but he wasn't

I think the big blue wire which feeds the RCD in that board may be smaller than the one between the right hand neutral rail and the main switch so piggybacking middle to left bar may not be a wise decision.

I was thinking that too, but I am counting too many big blue wires in the right hand bar - there should be one from the main switch (far right N) and one going to the top of the RCD, but there's three there. It is as if it was a high integrity board and it got butchered (badly). I'm just...

My reasoning for thinking the neutrals are wrong is the right hand bar is usually not RCD protected, this rings true for the boiler circuit. However there's too many large blue wires in it for my liking, as if it is feeding another neutral bar. This is why I think you are getting the tripping...

I can't help but think the neutrals are wrong, but you really need a spark in to sort them.

It could be, when the RCD trips do the lights also go off?

Why on earth would anyone fit a single RCD unit? I was thinking the black on the right may be in the wrong position but it is difficult to tell how the consumer unit has been configured. Try asking friends and neighbours if they know a reputable electrician, also maybe worth looking on SELECT...

As the certificate above was a generic one from the regs my guess is they wern't members of any scheme, there was no need to be. If all else fails you will probably get away with having an electrical installation condition report EICR carried out by someone who is a member of a competent person...

They'll probably just fluff over it anyway, the only time electrics were mentioned last time I bought a house was in the survey. If they are more demanding you can get an EICR done but that will likely flag up things which although complied back in 2003 do not comply now.

There is usually at least 3 sheets, an electrical installation certificate (either one or three signature), a schedule of inspections and a schedule of test results, the model forms for comparison can be downloaded here: http://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-regulations/forms/1992-2.cfm?type=pdf...

Who is Andy?

Last time npower read my meter it was also a "electricity meter inspection", "This is the last time our metering agent visited to make sure your meter was safe". In other words, probably to make sure I hadn't tampered with it. I imagine they'll want to do similar with all meters.

It is a how long is a piece of string type question I'm afraid, try entering your postcode here: http://www.competentperson.co.uk to find a local spark. It may be a bigger issue or it may not be an issue at all, without being there is difficult to tell.

It sounds like a loose connection, best advice is to turn off the MCB for the downstairs lighting circuit and get it checked asap by an electrician. Keep in mind which lights worked and which ones didn't as it will help the electrician locate the issue more quickly.

Unfortunately seen that too often on the old wylex rewirable fuse boxes :(

C1 right there, exposed live part :eek:

The bit I'm not following is the lack of a link between the cutout and the left hand henley, maybe it was an open circuit neutral and they used the sheath but that sounds a bit more dodgy!

Water thank?

So you have heard of the 80% correction for temperature? 1/1.24= approx 80% :D As for the ohms law resistive things mentioned before, we have to remember a lot of resistive loads create heat with a positive temperature coefficient (which balances out) so it isn't a linear response for them...

Supplementary bonding is done local to the bathroom, that is the whole point of it. There is no need (albeit not forbidden) to connect it back to the consumer unit, it will no doubt have some connection to the CU via circuit protective conductors but that is just incidental. The idea is to...