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Is it an Axial or Centrifugal fan???

I'd not use a std JB under a bath... I'd use a PVC adaptable box and a couple of stuffing glands

Whatever you do DO NOT twist & tape.. use junction block and keep the joint accesible I did some work in a take away (on the lighting circuit), unbeknownst to me the owners had twisted & taped and then tiled over... :roll: :roll: A week later the place burnt to the ground, including the...

Not if the supply to the "essentials CU" is fed off a 40A MCB in your main board... but as your genny is only 21.5A COP then the demand off that board should be less than this.

Katko were the best price when I did a job that needed one.. that was a couple of years ago though.. In all honesty you'd be better off feeding your essentials CU as a submain from your main CU.. this will allow you to use a smaller, cheaper switch

MCB - doorbell TX - doorbell (proper bell type) - all fitted to main CU that'd let you know!!

Ooops.. but digging self out of hole.. you could feed your "essentials CU" off a suitably rated MCB in your other CU, your switch would have to be rated >= supplying MCB rating Phew,,, out of hole now!!

If it was me fitting it, then no.. because you (or someone else in the house) could forget that you are running on genny and try and have a shower or put the oven on. I know that you will say that you'd turn the breakers off to those items, but what if you forgot??

I think that you must be looking at the wrong switch?? Your genny is rated at 21.5A COP (IIRC)? Katko only do 3 & 4 pole change over switches and the smallest one is more than suitable for what you need (40A).. Here's a linkhttp://www.katko.co.uk/products/enclosed/polycarb.html#changeover...

The best way to do this would be to have your essential services fed from a seperate CU.. In the feed to this CU fit a changeover switch,, the only problem could be your earthing(???) Ideally, and if your genny is up to it? you could have the lighting, boiler, fridge / freezer and maybe a...

Looking at the other pictures in the link it only looks like a 2 position switch, which to me is non-compliant. I like the type that Jim linked too, the ones I've used are Katko ones.

Does that change over switch comply??? I thought that it had to be a SUPPLY 1 -- OFF -- SUPPLY 2 type? That one doesn't seem to have that configuration??

Quality :shock: :shock: :shock:

If it was installed in 2003 then it is unlikley that it complied with the regs then,, unless you have RCD sockets for all sockets that could be used for outdoor stuff... A better (closer) photo of the service head and CU would help though!!

As it's a bungalow... Is it in the kitchen or in the loft??

If you can trace the wire back and you didn't particularly want to chase your walls then you could use one of those MK wireless switches and receivers... would this get around part P??? none of the electrical work would be in the kitchen (except removal of cable and switch and that's not...

It sounds like you replaced the cord and "dongle" Some of those ceramic things are too heavy for the switch and need to be lifted up so that the switch will operate correctly... I hate them!!

That doesn't sound like to bad an idea,, HOWEVER you must make sure that you are "bypassing"/temporarily replacing the right cable Dead testing with ohm meter and insulation tester would be best though!

Why not go into a local wholesaler and see what they have to offer.. You will really need to get IP65 fittings, and to save you a bit of money in runing costs then you should think about using LED's --- you might run at 3W each instead of 20W,, this has an obvious cost saving considering the...

It's quite possible to extend the incomming cable to the transformer, but you shouldn't be extending the outgoing side cables.. If you really want to do this then consider getting IP65 downlights (painted ones will flake over time) and use either CLF GU10's or LED GU10's... LED's will be...