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Bit confused by your comment about 'closing the bypass'. The idea of an automatic bypass is (usually) that it's set so that it ONLY opens automatically when the pressure in the system rises past its setpoint (ie. when everything else (TRVs etc.) is shut). Why do you need to adjust it once set?

Dunno where you are in UKbut there's a company on the South Coast called Sensible Heat which has considerable experience of the Honeywell CM product range. 01273 475834

To answer your first (and direct) question: heatstores are nothing to do with Building Regs Part G3, which relates only to pressurised DHW systems with volumes greater than 15 litres. However.... If you want to create an efficient system involving an HE condensing boiler and a heatstore...

What manual? It's even on the datasheet! :D

ISTR that the Netaheat PCB has a relay involved with fan control /APS switchover that's prone to failure and gives these or similar symptoms.... If ONLY the PCB gets changed (or the work is done by a CORGI engineer) all well and good. But I've seen enough banana-shaped Netaheat casings to...

Maybe the OP (or DD!!)can explain why the HC60NG demand unit can't be used to solve the cycling problem. Much smaller and presumably a lot cheaper......

As has already been suggested, get BC and a CORGI-registered installer on site at the same time. And quietly suggest to BC that they get their facts straight before being hit with a back-charge for work caused by their mistake. It's total nonsense to suggest that any appreciable amount of...

Why do you need de-scaling (presumably of the coil / HW side of the heat exchanger, depending on Powermax model)? Do you not have a Siliphos gadget on the incoming cold to prevent scale forming in the first place? (I thought they were required (and mentioned in MI) for Powermax.....)

Note that with a conventional cylinder (NOT an unvented one) you can connect your auto-bypass valve in parallel with the DHW zone valve and (in effect) have an 'infinitely long' bypass. (comprising the thermal capacity of the cylinder.)

Errrm.... Silly question, maybe.... But what are you doing with a newly-installed non-condensing combi? So much for Building Regs Part L!

Yes But use fire-resistant foam SPARINGLY and when you use mortar on the outside, make sure the pipe is pushed up as HIGH as possible (assuming it's a condesning boiler, the flue needs to slope BACK towards the boiler). Where's the rubber boot that's supposed to fit over the end of the flue?

No doubt this has come up before - but couldn't find a suitable search key! I've got 'Victorian' (well - 1898 in fact) small, black and white tiles laid in geometric pattern in my hallway. They are laid 'groutless' - ie. no significant gaps between the tiles. I'm planning a re-lay, to fix...

I don't think you're getting out enough, Tony. Boeing has sourced large chunks of its aircraft from Mainland China for many years. see http://www.boeing.com/companyoffices/aboutus/boechina.html

Have you contacted Kromshroeder? (although they DO make both valves AND PCBs!) Also, I'd have thought with the way the bulk of the boiler market is headed, with Zero Pressure governors and tacho-controlled variable-speed fans on premix burners, the demand for modulating valves as such was...

I've done one and it did what it says on the box. It's dimensions and the strength of the wall fixings take a bit of care, however. The hot water tank that sits behind the boiler is quite thick and holds quite a weight of water (15 kilos + the weight of the tank and fittings). The boiler...

Just looked through Essential Gas Safety - Flueing Standards and Flue Testing. For concentric flues and flues (eg. plastic pipes) for condensing boilers, I could find no reference to joints inside chimneys, or indeed any reference to procedures to be followed to instal or inspect flues...

Hate to mention this again.... But people are using expressions like 'Working Pressure at the meter'. This is meaningless unless there is a flow rate specified. Theoretically, with a U6 this would be 6 cu/m per hour. But as has been discussed already in this thread, the WP is sliding away at...

Probably a bad idea to put leak sealer into a combi unless you're desperate! Are you SURE there's no water coming out of the PRV discharge pipe (on the outside wall, under the boiler)? Also, there may be a leak across the secondary heat exchanger. Do you notice the indicated pressure...

High flow rate through the rads will NOT have ANY effect on the rad surface temperature. The objective of adjusting the flow rate is to get the correct temperature drop between the inlet and outlet of each rad. With a conventional boiler, this means (as Dan says) approximately 11 degrees...