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Thanks for the idea. As we could do with some new sockets and the walls could do with a coat of paint I had thought about using flashband to cover the whole socket and onto the wall - cheap and little work but still waterproof. A bad idea or not?

Our conservatory roof has reached the end of it's life and we are getting it replaced. As the base and walls are not being touched there's no electrical work needed, but due to our external connected utility room roof needing some work after conservatory roof has come down and before a new...

Due to some rot in a rafter I have just taken down a lathe and plaster ceiling and it really does make a mess. If you intend doing it then clear the room fully and use more than a couple of sheet for teh floor or you can say good bye to your carpet :lol: It is quite satisfying watching it...

Simon, I know that like for like it will be less efficient, my question though is: Is 170mm insulation squashed to 100mm less efficient than 100mm insulation unsquashed. My gut feel is that it probably is, but if the insulation difference is minimal then the cost difference isnt.

I will be insulating a ceiling and loft after some rot treatment, and am just wondering whether 100mm insulation is more effective than 170mm squashed between rafters. The reason is that in some areas there is only 100mm height, but I will get a better discount if I buy all of 170mm. So if I...

Thought I'd try and show what I was proposing with a VB and see if you guys had any comments. I was intending using foil tape for any joints (including bewtween the poythene and the celotex. I assume this will work I also assume it's OK to put the celotex directly onto the beam

Thanks I have knocked up a quick sketch in lieu of photos. How can I ensure a VB around the beam? And how do I keep the barrier integral at the walls? I will be paying a spreader to skim it all once the plasterboard is up. Unlike the quick cheap as possible fix that Richard C gave advice...

Just another thing, is that the pitched section does not directly meet the flat section. There is a beam which traverses the room. If I were at home I'd take a photo, but I'll try and explain. In section running right to left. Flat standard ceiling joists sit on top of structural beam. Left...

noesall, putting building regs requirements aside for a second, and out of curiosity, are you suggesting that by using less insulation there is a larger chance of condensation, and where are you suggesting this condensation will occur? - on tiles in the air gap between tiles and insulation...

We have unfortunately had a small outbreak of dry rot which I have atributed to leak which took me a while to fix and failing to do the remedial work when I should. This has forced me to take down the lathe and plaster ceiling ready for the dry rot specialists to weave their spells. Part of...

I was thinking of producing a foil backed plasterboard box foil taped to the plasterboard for the vapour barrier. It'll stick up into the 50 mm air gap a bit, but still leave plenty of air movevment. I have thought of insulated platerboard, but thickness and cost are a factor

Thanks for the feedback. The fact that those fittings use GX53 was one of the key choices as they run cool and nobody can fit halogens is one main reason for suggesting them. As the fittings will be open to free air at the back, if I leave a 25 mm gap around the edges I can't see why there...

I'm not sure what you mean here. I was asking if it was ok to drill a hole in the platewrsboard and celotex and fit, or if the hole in the celotex needed to be much larger to leave a gap between it and the fitting. I know the celotex will be in contact wiht the plasterboard. I have already...

OK, I know you guys hate downlights, but bear with me. As a reult of dry rot and woodworm, I have had to rip a ceiling down and SWMBO has requested more light in th room. Want to keep the centre light, but as teh room ahs a sloped roof on one side I though a couple of recessed downlights will...

Sorry for dragging this back up again, but I just wanted to say a big Thanks! for the help given by all but especially Richard C. Due to car problems this got delayed by a couple of weeks, but is all done now and the (matt) paint is going on today. It's obviously not a properly skimmed...

Thanks to all for posting. Hopefully get it done this weekend. I[/url] did intend using a dead man prop, but thanks for the link. The difference in price between the larger and smaller boards is about £5 so not onerous. But the key difficulty is the stairs and 180 degree bend at top. The house...

I'll hope to have a pair of hands to support the other end (got to get the missus to do something lol [good job she doesnt read this forum or I'm dead] lol). I was going to use the 1220x900 anyway because of the weight, restricted access and getting it home from the shed. I did think about the...

Just had a thought. I'm trying to save her money anyway I can, and I can't see anyway I'll use 10kg of Easi Fill - which seems to be the smallest size avaialble. But, I do have a part used bag of one coat plaster I use for small patching jobs. I'm happy to use that to save her money if it will...

Richard thanks for your help I certainly hope and expect I am competent enough to get the boards to fit snugly around the room, so maybe I'll try a thin bead of grab adhesive instead then.

Thanks for the quick reply You're right that perfection is not the immediate aim, but want to do as good a job as I can without making it more difficult for the plasterer later. I was going to use the ready mix joint filler, but is this the Easy Fill you meant? It was the joint between...