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by far the safest way for a DIYer to work on a system is to drain the Cold water tank. Just remember to call a Plumber when you fill up and get an air lock :lol:

Mark, if you lived nearere to me I would take you on, I like the cut of your jib. I recently posted a thread to take on a trainee, the response on here was appauling, it does make you wonder.

Yes that would work, a traditional Bathroom is more likely to look better with a brick effect, although having the brick effect actually means that it is more likely to have smaller cuts against your out of true walls.

Landscape is very popular these days, brick effect was very popular a couple of years ago but the phaze has died now and always looked a little naff anyway. If you want to see currect trends then visit The Hansgrohe, Duravit, Ambience Bain websites, and anything by Phillipe Stark

Richard c doesn't like over boarding he prefers to do it properly by ripping up the floor and tiling directly onto 18mm ply with a single part......errrrrr :lol:

No, you need a seperate pump, the event would in no way cope.

The WC is no problem, standard practice is to leave the customer with a pan and a tap with a bucket for flushing. The Bath is more challenging, is there a nearby room where a Bath can be temporarily sited? it could be piped up (H&C) using plastic pipe and the waste fitted into existing set...

Prime the P/board with Bal Prime APD, then trowel the wall with rapid setting single part tile adhesive (4mm notched trowel) then apply Homelux or Schluter Kerdi tanking membrane, then apply a section of matting in the internal corner(s) with a 2" overlap onto your existing sheet. Tiles can be...

Funnily enough I was working on a system yesterday, changing a towel radiator. The Boiler (Pott Profile) was going off each time it reached temperature, the pump stopped with it, it was taking about 10 to 15 minutes for the boiler to fire up again, the room stat wasn't ever getting satisfied...

Never be afraid to ask, even if London is a bit far for me to travel :wink:

The flow restrictors that I have fitted are inserted into the pan itself, just before the flush cone, I have got a couple from ideal standard in the past, basically a poly washer

Before recession £300 + VAT per day, during recession between £200 - £250 per day + VAT, after recession £100 per week, De Vatted :lol: Bathroom Fitter, Designer

You need some kind of insulation board if using UFH on concrete

There's too much conflicting advise on here, I suggest the OP contacts Bal

Bal recommend overboarding with a 15mm ply, I personally believe that if using Porcelain or Ceramic then 12mm ply is fine, but it is better to overboard with a 12mm tile backer board, in particular when dealing with stone tiles. If re boarding onto joists then board should be covered with...

Some of these so called jokes are in bad taste, I would never stoop that low. No matter what.

I can’t understand why Boyzone fans are upset by jokes about Stephen Gately. It’s only words.

If you use screws as part of your DIY work or Trade then you HAVE to have an Impact driver, end of subject, lock the thread :lol:

If you live in a hard water area then it's best to fit a softener at teh same time. I always advise this to customers but some refuse to and the tiles onthe wet room floor look awful. I have gone off stone, give me a Porcelain any day of the week

Ditto, they quoted me £100 less than my previous insurers and I get free £1k tool cover thrown in