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noseall, What "measures" are usually used to stop the wobble ? Is it just some timber screwed to the floor from one of the rafters, that will allow the steel to "lean" against ? Paul. We have two times three horz steels with four vertical steels to hold these up with...

Hi, I've got a building being refurbished. We have a 40 ft roof that we need to cut and put on. At the mid point (ish) of the rafter we will be putting steel perlins in to support the load. At the two gable ends we have already placed the padstones (a little lower than we think we need) and...

I'm on my second TS55.... Ok, I've got two. One is stuck perm. in the table saw module. I've had them for 10 years, they are SO versatile... Their sanders are pretty good too...

This is how we got all the timbers to length. They came in 2402 - 2410... We want them at 2400 - exactly... So, FESTOOL TS55 & Guide rail....

So, what we have done, is ignore the floor. Determine where we want the 'top plate' for the walls to be, built our thermalite walls and then measuring from the top of the walls DOWN to determine where the bottom plate of the timber stud work needs to be.... This seems to be working. So, we have...

Ah yes... Well, the first pic is one wall, where it's not too bad. The others show some 'bad' areas. At worst we are packing 25mm....

Woody, yep, after putting up the 4 by 2's with double top plate, noggins and single sole plate, it seems pretty darn solid. When we get plasterboard on, should be fine.

We have an uneven concrete floor. We are putting stud work on it. However, to ensure the base plate is level, we are packering it level with plastic shims. The shims are essentially 500mm part and we are using hammer in fixings to secure. To help distribute the 'load' that will eventually be...

Well, we are putting our base plates down and packering so level, so I can see how "out" the floor is. Some areas worse than others... Some REALLY bad !! Well, the contractor has not, as yet contacted me about payment !

And, of course, a bucket of water to dunk it in afterwards !

dazlight, nope! But I can get one. The lad who will prob. end up smoothing the stuff out is pretty old-school and will prob. do it with a plasters trowel and a lot of bending down. We can give one a go... I presume you mean something like :-...

Thank you for your replies. Woody. Due to the area we are studding against and all the odd nooks and crannies the old building is offering to us, the loss of an additional 18mm either side and cost I would prob. pref. a to-wall-fixing. Your solution however would give a rock solid wall, that...

dazlight, Thanks for those product recommendations. They all look great for products to then lay a final floor on. I've used Uzin & Ardex before when then putting final floor finishes on. In this situation where we are attempting to get a rough unlevel floor out to give me say a 5 mm tolerance...

dazlight, Can I ask what compound you use, or were you using a generic term for essentially self - levelling compound ? After the rooms have been split up into more manageable sizes, we will go round with a level highlighting low/high points to determine where we need to fill. We essentially...

I had given the contractor my SE's drawings in relation to the slab construct. Had seen the site three times, so he knew the area he was dealing with. And looking at my emails, I can see explicitly asking him to ensure he had lasers and app. equipment to ensure the slab is "all at the same...

Morning Frank.... Thanks for the input. I had a search around and can't see a product specifically for this problem. However, their are a few around that can be 'pimped'. We can use a lightweight strap http://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-roll-edge-restraint-strap-bend-500-x-100mm-5-pack/85398...

Vinn, In hindsight that makes complete sense. I wasn't however asked for any such details. If I had, I would have happily given them. Esp. as Datum's had been extended to other parts of the building and were still (and still are) in place to allow me to understand levels throughout the entire...

The area is being split into smaller areas. After this is done, I will then mark out low/high points and use a runny mix of self level to take out the worst. This will allow no hollows to be under where the PIR goes, so when the 50mm screed goes down it should sort out the problems. Their is...

You can't un-see something like that. You'll dream about it.

I dream about having pre-heated water on this site, we could actually get clean hands !! No, this is straight cold water. I was impressed by it as well. Got my mate who supplied the kit and did half the building - £100 well spent I thought !