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They have done a first class joinery job, and we are very pleased with the windows. Of the 14, eight were straightforward. Tthree we are not entirely happy with:- They replaced Crittall windows, and they made too big a rebate on the inside, so had to close it with a hardwood trim; also, they...

Thank you for your response. [/url] That's *this* thread ;-) In hardwood, I guess; with mitred corners, etc.. Mortar would be easier... or sealant. But not so neat, maybe. That's another problem - the windows were spray-painted, in a greyish shade of white.

Yes. They are joiners, not window fitters. Well - not exactly... They haven't been paid in full yet ;-) They did a great deal more than expected, and I said I would finish off the making good. One wall was previously uPVC-clad; when they came to measure up, the battens were still in...

They've made us some nice new hardwood windows to replace the uPVC, but there's a 20mm gap between frame and brickwork. These gaps are filled mostly with foam, but how should I seal them on the outside against the weather? I thought of using lime mortar, but that would a) crack, and b) not...

Thanks, guys, for taking the trouble to respond. But the question remains unanswered ;-)

Indeed. I know - but only if ALL is caught. My house is on the road, so all the rain from the front of the house discharges straight onto the highway (yes, my front door does too, no footpath !) They ought to allow 50% rebate for 50% catch. So from that PoV, there is absolutely no incentive...

... but by then it's too late, you've already got it; which is what I want to avoid. but my roof is in three "catchments", so I need three butts. That's what I would like to do behind the garage. It has always struck me as strange that makers put two bosses at the top, but only one at the...

It's lucky, then, that some people like a big... Oooppss !

That's where it was meant to go ! I dunno how it managed to end up here ! Sorry.

We are having the roof "re-done". and altering the guttering layout so as capture rainwater. One challenge I have is to know what size water butts to get ! I wonder if anyone knows of a “Guidance Sheet” ? Basically, I guess, I need some correlation between post code (to indicate likely...

I figured those out forty years ago when insulating our first house with fibreglass. So I dun sum more sums:- Kingspan reduces your heat loss:- 10mm by 72% 25mm by 86% 50mm by 93% 75mm by 95% 100mm by 96% 300mm by 98.7% so that extra 200mm from 100 to 300 only gets you another...

"Let's call the whole thing off!" :wink:

I think perhaps you meant:- "On whisky, I seemed to get most cleaned off, but beer just slowed me down"? :lol:

Behind every silver lining there's a forking gert cloud - or, in your case, a "reminder"... I was afraid there might be... I bought the kit last year, but was wary of using it for that reason.

25mm is awful thin... I reckon on 100mm - yes, it's (nearly) four times the price, but worth it, I reckon. Roughly speaking, every inch reduces the heat loss by half, so 1" gives 50% heat loss, 2" gives 25%, 3" gives 12.5%, 4" gives 6.25% heat loss. What they call "The Law of diminishing...

My thoughts precisely - well, almost. I propose to use 100mm kingspan, painted white, but just clipped or wedged into place between the roof timbers so that it can be removed come summer. And for about half the windows, too. And for the remaining windows that don't open (and as many as...

[coff] Say after me:- There is no "C" in supersede

That was two years ago. What's the rest of the story ?